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“Obama Day” in Rome

27 Mar
One of the local news channels — at least the one we monitor in the office — declared today
President Barack Obama addresses U.S. Embassy employees at Villa Taverna, March 27, 2014.

President Barack Obama addresses U.S. Embassy employees at Villa Taverna, March 27, 2014.

“Obama Day.” Much like a weather disaster in the U.S., like “Snowmageddon” or “Arctic Blast,” Sky24 TV covered the President’s visit to Rome all day, step by step, motorcade by motorcade, meeting by meeting. Traffic was so bad there might as well have been a winter storm. Going on foot, as we do, was certainly easier. 
It’s hard to imagine this type of coverage in the U.S. A visit by the Queen of England would be a big deal, but it would never get full play-by-play coverage. In the U.S., we reserve that for national disasters. Here, POTUS is a big deal and his entire agenda was seen as newsworthy.
The crowd awaits entrance to Villa Taverna. Grazie a Dio there was no rain!

The crowd awaits entrance to Villa Taverna. Grazie a Dio there was no rain!

The police presence was impressive. Beginning Wednesday, in preparation for an evening arrival, every Italian law enforcement group was mobilized, surrounding the Embassy as well as the Ambassador’s residence where POTUS would stay. Adding complexity, Secretary of State Kerry also came to town. The Carabinieri, Polizia di Stato, Guardia di Finanza, and the Roma Polizia Municipale were all on duty.  There were probably others that went unseen.
Not surprisingly, Mr. Obama, like any visiting dignitary, was running
About 200 people gathered in the garden of VT and patiently awaited the guests of honor.

About 200 people gathered in the garden of VT and patiently awaited the guests of honor.

late by the end of his first appointment, which was with Papa Francesco. It struck me as I watched the extensive Italian coverage of the meeting, that arguably the two most influential men in the world were in that Vatican room together today.  Each very popular in the other’s country, by the way. The American approval rating of Papa Francesco is 3-out-of-4, and Italians overall like President Obama very much.  
The day progressed with Mr. Obama meeting with President Napolitano, Prime Minister Renzi, and finally a private tour of the Colosseum. 
These kids are a little young to be so entranced by a mere president. The object of their attention: a movie on aniPad.

These kids are a little young to be so entranced by a mere president. The object of their attention: a movie on an iPad.

Tonight we were invited to the Ambassador’s residence, Villa Taverna, for a “meet and greet” with the President and “S” as Kerry is called.  Security was beyond tight, and we were instructed to arrive by 16:30 for an 18:30 arrival of POTUS. Luckily the rain that threatened and spat throughout the day ceased about 16:00 as the event was outdoors. We were joined by a couple hundred embassy employees and family members, and after enduring a good-natured wait in line to be frisked screened,  we mingled in the fabulous garden of VT to await our Commander-in-Chief.  Surprisingly he was only about 15-20 minutes late!
Secretary was the opening act for POTUS. He has been in Rome a lot  since becoming "S."

Secretary was the opening act for POTUS. He has been in Rome a lot since becoming “S.”

This was the first time Ric and I had the pleasure of being in the same “room” as a president. It was pretty darned exciting. He, Secretary Kerry, and Ambassador Phillips are all pretty good friends. I imagine they retreated to an amicable evening inside Villa Taverna as we headed home and a light mist began to fall. 

Day Two: Not all according to plan

14 Feb

For almost four years I have wanted to climb the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. When we traveled here in 2010 and 2011, we were not in good enough physical shape to take it on. Even the 67-or-so stairs to our Cinque Terre apartment killed us that trip! Imagine 320-something to climb the dome of St. Peter’s. Now we are in good shape and today was to be the day! It dawned sunny and bright, cloudless, almost trending to spring-like weather. (Sorry East Coast U.S., I couldn’t resist!)  

10,000 young engaged couple begin to arrive at St. Peter's, Feb 14 2014.

10,000 young engaged couples begin to arrive at St. Peter’s, Feb 14 2014. Have you ever seen a bluer sky?

We headed over to Vatican City and found Piazza San Pietro filled with thousands of chairs and the basilica closed. Throngs of young people were arriving in couples. I asked a guard of the Gendarmerie Corps, “Cosa succede qui oggi?” (What’s going on here today?)  It seems Papa Francesco invited 10,000 engaged couples to meet here on St. Valentine’s Day to consider their upcoming marriages with the theme “The Joy of ‘Yes’ Forever.” Sweet, but it meant we couldn’t climb the dome.

You would think the St. Peter’s website would have information about an event like this, but no. A few days ago I checked and double-checked the hours for the basilica and the cupola. No word of 20,000 special invitees. Upon returning home, only with a Google search using “Vatican Events 2014” did I find mention of the event, and no mention of the closure. In fact the Basilica website insists it is open every day.  Also, clicking on a link entitled Vatican Calendar of Papal Celebrations led me to the year 2008.  Unfortunately this is what we often find in Italy: websites that are so out-of-date as to be useless. Perhaps I will write about Interweb Woes sometime in the future. It’s quite strange.

A handsome Swiss Guard redirects those who were clearly not meant to be a part of the Papal celebration.

A handsome Swiss Guard redirects those who were clearly not meant to be a part of the Papal celebration.

We were amused to find our Italian-ness taken for granted. Anyone who looked particularly non-Italian, as well as those who were clearly not in a couple, were quizzed by an English-speaking Swiss Guard about their intentions to see the Vatican Museums, then redirected to the museum entrance. We were assumed to know what we were doing, I guess, because no one challenged us to walking about in the crowd. We probably could have stayed and attended if we’d wanted to wait 3 hours. I am really curious as to how the 20,000 people knew about this event. I don’t read the Italian paper everyday, and I can only watch so much news before the politics make my head spin, but how did 20,000 innamorati from all over the world (says the Vatican) find out about this gathering? Perhaps word went out to parishes?

All was not lost… Rome really is small and we knew a bus from the Vatican area to the Centro Storico would drop us near the Ara Pacis, so we headed to an Impressionism exhibit there. This exhibit is on loan from Washington, D.C., and I’ve meant to see it for the past 4 months it has been in Rome. It closes February 23, so time was short. It turns out a Friday morning was the perfect time to go. Imagine having an almost-private showing of Renoir, Monet, Cèzanne, Degas, Van Gogh, Seurat and more?  Not once did I have to wait for someone to move out of the way so I could study a painting.  The works were so intimately displayed I was tempted to reach out and touch the works. I had to put my hands in my pockets.

Second stop was to be an obscure museum called La Sala Santa Rita where there is an exhibit about the Nazi occupation of Rome in WWII. A few days ago I checked and double-checked the days and times. We were good to go… until we arrived. There was a lecture going on, wall-to-wall people, no chance to see anything. Did I miss it on the website? Back home I checked: The English-language website says “no upcoming events.” The Italian-language site lists one for February 14: “Un incontro con Ray Caesar.” Figurati! See notes above about Italian websites. Humph!

It was a beautiful sunny day, it was Valentine’s Day, we didn’t have to work, and we are together. We had a nice walk, saw great art, and tonight we will dine at the home of Italian friends we have been trying to set a dinner with for several months. Not bad for a day that didn’t go entirely according to plan!