24 September 2026.
Angelic voices coming from the surrounding mountains led to the creation of a Benedictine Abbey in 1120. Smack dab in the center of Switzerland in the Canton of Obwalden, Engelberg is a charming village clinging to tradition yet offering itself to the world as a destination resort for summer and winter activities.
We are in Switzerland in shoulder season – that time ‘tween summer and skiing – and unlike some of the more well-known Swiss destinations such as the Jungfrau Region and Zermatt, Engelberg is quiet even in mid-September when the weather is mild. Quiet, that is, until one ascends the cable way to Mount Titlis, where tour groups are drawn to the glacier, cliff walk, and rotating cable cars. The town, however, is peaceful.
“Mild” is an understatement regarding weather. We have endured experienced snow and freezing temperatures in early September several times in the past 12 years coming to the Swiss Alps and the Italian Dolomites. This year, my long-sleeved layers, puffy jacket, and earmuffs stay nestled in the suitcase while I wear the same two short-sleeved shirts on daily rotation. Light packing is annoying when you don’t use half of what you brought. Beats the extended periods of rain we have also endured some years.
Quaint little main street in the pedestrian area of Engelberg.
Engelberg has something for everyone, as a resort community should. Golf? Check. Hiking? Everything from easy walks to a via ferrata. Paragliding, cycling, mountain climbing, swimming, fishing, cable-car excursions, skiing, exploring a glacier cave, high-end shopping: Whew!
All of this is supported by a circulating free bus you can hop on to from one end of the valley to the other. Brilliant way to keep people out of cars.
We barely dipped in our toes in during a 5-night stay, sticking to our usual mode of exploration: on foot. While not the easy-hiking paradise we have found in other locations, we found a couple of outings that suited us and led to great views. We did not indulge in high mountain cable ways, but it is tempting to think of a return when there is at least a dusting of snow on the peaks lending magic to the landscape. It is damned dry now, sorry to say.
Leaving Engelberg behind, we ride up to the Trübsee. Cold morning departures require jackets but we shed them very quickly.
Our mountain ascent was only to the less-visited Trübsee, where one can take any of a number of walks with only the sounds of nature and a few soft-spoken fellow trekkers. Less than half the size of Lake St. Moritz which we walk around every trip, but with ever-so-few people, we still found our path to lunch walking around 2/3 of the lake before coming to the Alpstübli with views of Mount Titlis and the lake.
I was enchanted by the multiple playgrounds and interactive sites scattered around the lake with stories of legends and history of the area. What a great way to engage young children in outdoor activities! Some of the equipment and locations looked a bit risky. I guess these kids have to be tougher living in the mountains. We see so many of these “dangerous playgrounds” in our travels I started a Google Photo album.
Top Row: Two views of the pristine lake, no motorized boats allowed; Playground built around a legend of a Monk
MIddle Row: Playground themed to transporting goods in the mountains; Center photo depicts a “cable car” strung so kids can play in it; Mining Camp themes playground and picnic area
Bottom Picture: The theme characters, Schmuggli the mule and Engelbert the smuggler.
Another fabulous walk involved Sunday lunch at Restaurant Wasserfall and yes there is a waterfall right across the road from the terrace. The bright sun that day required umbrellas spanning the entire area so the waterfall view was from the road only. We walked a solid 3 miles mostly uphill, past a Benedictine monastery as well as forest, grazing cows, and recently mowed fields. Most of our fellow travelers were cyclists, not hikers; most of our fellow diners arrived by car. Inside, a quartet played traditional tunes. Reminded me of Gasthaus Bavarian Hunter in Minnesota except with Swiss food featuring locally hunted game, trout, and various schnitzels.
Top Row: Cows in the forest. I love to hike with the tinkle of cowbells nearby; The Terrace at Restaurant Wasserfall. English was cautiously spoken by the staff; The 4-piece band that plays every Sunday.
Final photo: the view to the valley beyond the restaurant.
Back to those angelic voices. According to legend, as Count Conrad von Sellenbüren sought the exact location for the abbey, a choir of angels was frequently heard singing hymns over the secluded valley. I guess it’s too noisy today to hear angels singing but in 1120 they were clear enough and so Engelberg was established. It took a few centuries for tourists to discover the valley but the imposing monastery complex – including a school founded in the same year and still operating – dominates the village.
We moved on to Wengen on Monday and the fine weather continues, which is great for travelers but makes me worry for this tiny country which is still very agrarian and no doubt they are worried about a dry winter as winter sports are an enormous economic factor. We’ve never seen so little snow on the peaks here in the Berner Oberland. Should have brought some summery clothes.
The monastery complex as seen from the hillside above. It sprawls across almost a square acre and has been rebuilt or renovated several times.
Alpenglow on the Jungfrau, viewed from our apartment terrace in Wengen. SIGH.
More to come…
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