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Things are different here

31 Mar
After almost two years here, we have different patterns and habits, routines we have adopted that have become second nature. I had pause to think about some of them recently and thought I would share with you some things we do in Italy that we did not/could not/would not do in the U.S.
  1. Eat pizza with a knife and fork
    Very fresh Mozzarella di Bufala is key!

    Very fresh Mozzarella di Bufala is key!

  2. Spend an hour-and-a-half each day commuting to & from work…on foot
  3. Walk to dinner — an hour from home — just because it’s a beautiful night
  4. Take a taxi home from dinner
  5. Car-Sharing!
  6. Kiss my boss when arriving at his home for a party (il bacetto, “the little kiss”)
  7. Say “Ciao bello/Ciao bella” to, well, almost everyone
  8. Give our building super/doorman/manager a tip for Easter, Christmas and Ferragosto. Oh that’s right; we didn’t have a portiere in Portland!
  9. Have dinner with a dog (he was next to us in the restaurant, and very well-behaved)
  10. Decide to walk instead of waiting for the bus because the transit tracker app says the bus is still 25 minutes away and it only takes 20 minutes to walk home.
  11. Shrug my shoulders when the bus that was 25 minutes away passes me 5 minutes later. Whaddya gonna do?
  12. Janie trots out the door under a watchful eye....

    Janie trots out the door under a watchful eye….

    Let our cats play in the elevator lobby and call it “enrichment”
  13. Worry when the crazy unfortunate man next door stops yelling…then find myself relieved when he starts yelling again because it means he’s OK.
  14. Get our groceries delivered: Best thing ever. (Remember Homegrocer.com? Way ahead of its time!) Here it’s a guy with a tiny truck or un motorino delivering the stuff we bought at the store an hour ago. Essential when you drink wine buy heavy bottles of beverages and do not have a car.
  15. Keep a restaurant list online because I so often am asked “Where should we eat in Rome?”
  16. Be kissed by waiters (il bacetto) at favorite restaurants
  17. See Ric kissed by & kiss friends, waiters, co-workers – yes by men too
  18. Worry someone will see me without make-up and think I am una brutta figura on Saturday morning
  19. Do something because it makes me una bella figura
  20. New Year's Eve Vespers with Papa F! We were right on the aisle. Ric snapped this pic with his phone.

    New Year’s Eve Vespers with Papa F! We were right on the aisle. Ric snapped this pic with his phone.

    Only buy fish on Tuesday and Friday because that’s when it’s fresh
  21. Plan meals around what is actually fresh in the market and local, not what I feel like eating that was shipped in from another continent

  22. Go to mass and see the Pope!

  23. Write a blog

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“Obama Day” in Rome

27 Mar
One of the local news channels — at least the one we monitor in the office — declared today
President Barack Obama addresses U.S. Embassy employees at Villa Taverna, March 27, 2014.

President Barack Obama addresses U.S. Embassy employees at Villa Taverna, March 27, 2014.

“Obama Day.” Much like a weather disaster in the U.S., like “Snowmageddon” or “Arctic Blast,” Sky24 TV covered the President’s visit to Rome all day, step by step, motorcade by motorcade, meeting by meeting. Traffic was so bad there might as well have been a winter storm. Going on foot, as we do, was certainly easier. 
It’s hard to imagine this type of coverage in the U.S. A visit by the Queen of England would be a big deal, but it would never get full play-by-play coverage. In the U.S., we reserve that for national disasters. Here, POTUS is a big deal and his entire agenda was seen as newsworthy.
The crowd awaits entrance to Villa Taverna. Grazie a Dio there was no rain!

The crowd awaits entrance to Villa Taverna. Grazie a Dio there was no rain!

The police presence was impressive. Beginning Wednesday, in preparation for an evening arrival, every Italian law enforcement group was mobilized, surrounding the Embassy as well as the Ambassador’s residence where POTUS would stay. Adding complexity, Secretary of State Kerry also came to town. The Carabinieri, Polizia di Stato, Guardia di Finanza, and the Roma Polizia Municipale were all on duty.  There were probably others that went unseen.
Not surprisingly, Mr. Obama, like any visiting dignitary, was running
About 200 people gathered in the garden of VT and patiently awaited the guests of honor.

About 200 people gathered in the garden of VT and patiently awaited the guests of honor.

late by the end of his first appointment, which was with Papa Francesco. It struck me as I watched the extensive Italian coverage of the meeting, that arguably the two most influential men in the world were in that Vatican room together today.  Each very popular in the other’s country, by the way. The American approval rating of Papa Francesco is 3-out-of-4, and Italians overall like President Obama very much.  
The day progressed with Mr. Obama meeting with President Napolitano, Prime Minister Renzi, and finally a private tour of the Colosseum. 
These kids are a little young to be so entranced by a mere president. The object of their attention: a movie on aniPad.

These kids are a little young to be so entranced by a mere president. The object of their attention: a movie on an iPad.

Tonight we were invited to the Ambassador’s residence, Villa Taverna, for a “meet and greet” with the President and “S” as Kerry is called.  Security was beyond tight, and we were instructed to arrive by 16:30 for an 18:30 arrival of POTUS. Luckily the rain that threatened and spat throughout the day ceased about 16:00 as the event was outdoors. We were joined by a couple hundred embassy employees and family members, and after enduring a good-natured wait in line to be frisked screened,  we mingled in the fabulous garden of VT to await our Commander-in-Chief.  Surprisingly he was only about 15-20 minutes late!
Secretary was the opening act for POTUS. He has been in Rome a lot since becoming "S."

Secretary was the opening act for POTUS. He has been in Rome a lot since becoming “S.”

This was the first time Ric and I had the pleasure of being in the same “room” as a president. It was pretty darned exciting. He, Secretary Kerry, and Ambassador Phillips are all pretty good friends. I imagine they retreated to an amicable evening inside Villa Taverna as we headed home and a light mist began to fall. 

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Perplexed

21 Mar
We have been without heat in our building for almost a week. Luckily the weather is mild: as I write this at 6:00 AM it is 9 C/49 F, and the high today will be 68 F. Not bad. But it is a little chilly in the mornings and the cats are missing radiator time. So what? Why “perplexed?”
A couple of weeks ago I came home to find this sign posted in the lobby of our building:
Lent 2014 The priests will visit families for an Easter blessing on Monday the 17th from 5-8 PM.

Lent 2014. The priests will visit families for an Easter blessing on Monday the 17th from 5-8 PM.

An Italian holiday tradition, seldom-if-ever-seen in the U.S.
Our perplexity is this: the announcement of priestly visits was posted, but nothing was said about the heating! No note of apology or acknowledgement of inconvenience. I actually had to have the Embassy call and ask what was going on after 5 days because the portiere (building manager) was not his usual present self. Maintaining a low profile so as not to be confronted by chilly occupants, he is apparently awaiting a part to effect repair on the century-old heating plant. It’s cooling off over the weekend, low 30’s by Monday. Heat would be nice. At least we have water. 

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On the 5th day we rested

19 Feb

Day five (Monday) I had hoped to return to St. Peter’s and climb the dome, but we awoke feeling a bit lazy after 4 days of tearing about. The last two days were long ones and travel intensive. Plus we’d missed the gym all weekend, so we took a different path.

As it was a beautiful spring-like morning we headed off at 7:15AM on a journey we usually take on Saturdays. We headed down through our quartiere of Parioli to our favorite Sicilian cafè for a  quick shot of espresso, where i ragazzi were surprised to see us on a Monday, necessitating an explanation of il giorno dei presidenti, including clarification that it was not just a day for Mr. Obama, but a day to honor all U.S. presidents. 

We continued on our way, across Villa Borghese, through Piazza del Popolo, then meandered through some of the myriad alleys we seldom travel, watching our city wake up and workers prepare for the week, down to Campo dei Fiori where again some of the vendors we patronize were surprised to see us on a Monday. More explanations.

On to the gym. The embassy was quiet except for the landscaping crew doing the annual trimming of the palm trees. It was nice to have the gym to ourselves! 

Now what became the highlight of the day, and a fitting end to the Valentine’s Day weekend: we bought Ric a new wedding ring. In 1989 he lost his while snorkeling in Hawaii. What with one thing or another, we never replaced it, but have been talking about doing so. Today was the day! We visited a little jeweler (complete with a protective man-trap entry) and made a selection. If he loses this one, the next one goes through his nose. :=)

Dinner of Ric’s homemade caponata, a Skype call with my brother and SIL, and some fine Sicilian vino bianco put a cap on the day. 

Did I say lazy? We accomplished 19,000 steps according to my pedometer, more than each of the prior two days! 

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Dear Family & Friends,

26 Dec

On Monday I was a little surprised to find it was Christmas week already. We had the usual advance warning of the Thanksgiving celebration, but

The Galleria on Via del Corso.

The Galleria on Via del Corso.

that was a false start: the “season” doesn’t kick off in Italy until L’immacolata, December 8, the celebration of the Immaculate Conception. The season does not end at midnight on December 31. Rather, the holiday season lasts until Epiphany, January 6.

In the U.S. we are bombarded with Christmas music beginning at Halloween. Here, the evidence of the coming holiday is a little more subtle. Decorations start going up in early

3 years ago, the lights on Via del Corso celebrated Italy's 150th year with red, white & green lights. This year, a rainbow.

3 years ago, the lights on Via del Corso celebrated Italy’s 150th year with red, white & green lights. This year, a rainbow.

December, but the majority are not illuminated until the 8th.  One barely hears a Christmas Carol outside of a concert or church venue until this very week of Christmas. The music continues to be part of the background until Epiphany. The lack of Christmas music early in the month is almost profound. In fact, less than two weeks ago I was having my nails done and listening to old Beach Boys and other seasonally non-specific American music (very popular here at all times of the year). While shopping at a major department store on the 14th we saw lots of decorations and holiday merchandise, but no seasonal soundtrack. Odd but appealing, this absence of public holiday music made it more fun to listen to our collection of 752 holiday songs on iTunes.

This priceless statue by Giambologna is in the U.S. Embassy. Here she stands amidst a display of poinsettias that only serve to make her more beautiful.

This priceless statue, Venus After the Bath,  by Giambologna is in the U.S. Embassy. Here she stands amidst a display of poinsettias that only serve to make her more beautiful.

So what did Ric and Laurel do? In the week following L’Immacolata, the Ambassador held a reception for all Embassy employees at his beautiful residence, Villa Taverna, my boss held a party at his apartment, and we went to an Advent concert at La Chiesa dei Portoghesi. This church has a fabulous organ on which an amazingly talented organist played an improvisational concert. We’ve never heard anything like it: non-traditional, more akin to a jazz session.

Seat of the Portuguese Catholic Church in Rome with an exceptional organ and organist.

Seat of the Portuguese Catholic Church in Rome with an exceptional organ and organist.

We were delighted to be invited to the Boncompangi Ludovisi home at Villa Aurora for a party on December 21, where the Prince and Princess (see Evening with an American Princess) entertained the residents of an orphanage they support.  Tucked into the evenings here-and-there, we wandered the city viewing the lights, baked Swedish Kringlor (pastries) as gifts for several people, and decorated Casa di Barton.

The magificent Villa Aurora, on a hill just a few steps off Via V. Veneto.

The magificent Villa Aurora, on a hill just a few steps off Via V. Veneto.

The Aurora Room, with it's famous fresco, and a gigantic tree.

The Aurora Room, with it’s famous fresco, and a gigantic tree.

Leo, Francesco, me and Alessandra enjoy one of the elegant salons at Villa Aurora.

Leo (back to camera), Francesco, and Alessandra – with me in the middle – enjoy one of the elegant salons at Villa Aurora.

A lot is crammed into two-and-a-half weeks from l’Immacolata to Christmas, versus the four-or-so weeks we have in the U.S. from Thanksgiving. Last-minute shopping is also a tradition of the season here as in North America. Every day beginning the 18th, the traffic became more and more intense, the horns sounding more frequently and with greater than usual annoyance. But after the usual pre-Christmas recitals, concerts, parties and receptions, almost two weeks of the holiday season remain and we take 4 holidays: Christmas, Santo Stefano (26th), New Year’s Day, and Epiphany (January 6).  Gotta love a schedule like that. Clearly there is no separation of Church and State, although Ric says that since the Carabinieri put their nativity scene outside of the station at headquarters in Parioli, that’s sufficient separation.

The tree in Palazzo Margherita, the U.S. Embassy, sparkles in red, white and blue.

The tree in Palazzo Margherita, the U.S. Embassy, sparkles in red, white and blue.

On Christmas Eve we attended an early (19:00) Mass at Santa Susanna, the seat of the American Catholic Church in Rome. Apparently Papa

This is outdoor space in 3 season, but for winter, encased in a transparent plastic "tent" heated by flaming torches.

This is outdoor space in 3 season, but for winter, encased in a transparent plastic “tent” heated by flaming torches.

Francesco’s policy of inclusion is working because lightening did not strike our Lutheran selves.  At the fashionable hour of 21:00, we took ourselves to our favorite trattoria where we have dined the last three Christmas Eves. They serve an all fish dinner, including mussels sautéed in wine (this is the restaurant where I learned to love cozze), shrimp pate, smoked salmon, marinated anchovies (yum!) and insalata al mare. That was just the antipasto course! Seafood risotto and paccheri with shellfish comprised the primi, and our entrée (secondi) was a whole steamed seabass (spigola) served with puntarelle bathed in an anchovy sauce. Two-and-a-half hours later we headed for home. Yes, we have become quite Roman in our dining hours and duration. We also ate all’aperto in that most restaurants have their outdoor tables encased in a plastic tent with heaters making it warm enough to remove your coat and be comfortable unless a high wind is blowing.

Christmas Eve by the light of the flaming heaters. The waiter took our picture.... I'd had an 18 hour day by this point. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

Christmas Eve by the light of the flaming heaters. The waiter took our picture…. I’d had an 18 hour day by this point. That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it.

The eating must continue, of course, but we chose to forego the family tradition of Swedish plättar (pancakes) and save ourselves for Christmas Lunch, a two-hour affair at a quaint restaurant in the ghetto of Rome. All restaurants and shops are open in this quartiere on Christmas (unless it is Shabbat), making it a convivial destination with some fine options. Many Italians dine out on Christmas Day, we have found, so reservations are essential. There were quite a few people waiting hopefully for a table outside the restaurants lining Via Portico d’Ottavia. We waltzed right in at 14:00 to a fine table in the back by the garden.

We caught up with the Bartons of Omaha Christmas night, and look forward to their invasion visit in August. We also peeked in on Derek via Skype. With a few more Skype sessions planned, by the end of the season we will have seen many friends and family from afar. We will wrap up the season with a day of repose today, Santo Stefano. A wind-and-rain storm last night makes staying inside seem like the best idea. The weekend will have us wandering the streets again (have to work on Friday), but January 1 we’ll take off for Switzerland, a mutual gift to each other: Winter Hiking in the Berner Oberland. I’ll be sure to post news of our trip.

Many thanks for cards, e-cards and various greetings sent our way. However you choose to celebrate, we wish you the very best! Buon Natale, Felice 2014, e tanti tanti auguri!

In a piazza, a forest of Christmas trees surrounds a little cabin where Babbo Natale hears the wishes of the bambini.

In a piazza, a forest of Christmas trees surrounds a little cabin where Babbo Natale hears the wishes of the bambini.

One of Princess Rita's bichon frises dresses for the occasion.

One of Princess Rita’s bichon frises dresses for the occasion.

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