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From the Alps to the Dolomites

5 Oct

6 October 2026.

Ciao from Italy! After nearly two weeks in one happy place, the village of Wengen in the Berner Oberland, we made our way to Italy. Our time in Wengen was devoted to researching necessary book updates so we took to cable cars, mountain trains, and trails to check out what’s changed. In the two years since our last visit there is a new cable way to the Schilthorn, a major renovation of the famous Piz Gloria, and a super fast gondola at Grütschalp. All of this to move the ever-growing hoards of visitors more efficiently through the landscape.

I am pleased to report the trails are not as busy as the transportation options. It seems many travelers are here to jump off a train or a gondola, see the view, take some pictures, and move on to eat and shop. All one has to do to find some solitude is walk. Lauterbrunnen is chock-a-block with tourists, many of the day-tripping from Interlaken and other points outside the valley. This village, which we used to find serene, is so busy with large families and tour groups plus buses, unnecessary rental cars, and local commercial traffic, that we spent little time there. Instead, our home was in car-free Wengen where the loudest noise came from the church bells that still follow the tradition of chiming each hour.

It was still unseasonably warm. Morning jackets were not needed by midday and the evenings were mild enough that outdoor dining continued through the first of October. The crowds started to thin ever-so-slightly in our second week which made for some breathing room on the trains. And as we departed town October 3, there were signs of the seasonal shutdowns coming mid-October.

The improbable view into the valley from the Gimmelwald Trail. Easy walk, amazing views. We would shortly descend by gondola to the same level as the ribbon of river you see in the distance.

Walking a less-worn path along the Lütschine River, these curious calves came to say hello.

Sunset and Wengen church, view from our apartment

We moved on to the Dolomites where it is near the end of the season as well. On October 11 our favorite hotel, AlpenHotel Panorama, closes for the period before ski season starts in early December. There are about a dozen rooms occupied right now, so very quiet.

You’d think it would be an easy trip from Central Switzerland to Northern Italy — about 180 miles as the crow flies — but those darn alps make travel less than direct. It’s about 320 miles driving but by train, it took us 9 1/2 hours plus a 50 minute taxi ride to make the move. Beautiful routes, comfortable trains and the freedom to read, sleep, chat, poke at our screens, or simply enjoy the views. Beats driving.

We split the journey, spending a night in Zürich to break up the trip. That gave us a chance to stretch our legs and enjoy a summery night — crazily warm for October — dining outdoors in a fine Lebanese restaurant.

Coming to AlpenHotel Panorama is a such a pleasure after a long trip. This is our fifth stay here. We are drawn by the stunning beauty of the Alpe di Siusi, the incredible peace and quiet of this car-free place, the easy walking, and the timeless hospitality of the hotel. This is a half-pension property meaning our breakfast and dinner are included and the dinners are spectacular! Multiple courses with small portions, a simplified but elegant degustation menu. Such a pleasant respite after five weeks of travel. We don’t have to prepare a meal nor even think about where we are going to have dinner or what we might like to eat. Restaurant fatigue on a long trip is real so we like the surprise elements of a half-pension stay along with the thoughtful elegance. Such a far cry from my simply on-the-road meals which are often dinner-in-a-bowl.

Some pictures from our first evening and morning. More to come.

Distant mountains to our west in the fading light.

AlpenHotel Panorama, reachable by chairlift or vehicle with severe restrictions on when a private vehicle can arrive. Makes car-free Wengen look busy.

Moody morning view of the Sassolungo and Sassopiatto. Today, October 5, there was light rain during our walk for the first time in 5 weeks! The mountains are dry and the locals are praying for a good winter as skiing is a crucial part of the economy and lifestyle.

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Trail etiquette

4 Aug

4 August 2026.

Ric and I have a habit of saying good morning, hello, ciao, etc., whether we are out for a neighborhood stroll or a hike in the Swiss Alps. Recently it struck me that we encounter a number of people on our local wetlands trail who studiously avoid eye contact. They don’t acknowledge that anyone else could possibly be sharing the space with them. Perhaps they are absorbed in meditation or maybe listening to a book, podcast, or music through ever-present earbuds.

Maybe they are simply anti-social or fear being dragged into a conversation with a couple of random old people.

Do you say hello to everyone you meet when you are out for a walk? Does it matter if you are on the sidewalk in your neighborhood or in your local nature park? How about if you are out for a hike in a more remote location, like the mountains?

I have always considered it polite to recognize people we see on the trail. Mostly people we meet coming from the other direction but also those we may pass when moving at a faster pace. It is de rigueur etiquette when hiking in the mountains in Italy and Switzerland. Everyone either starts the greeting or responds. Ciao, Buongiorno, Morgan, Grüezi, and Hello are all common. But why? You’re never going to see these people again. So what?

Turns out there are very good reasons and much precedent rather ingrained in some cultures. I happened upon an enlightening article in Italian (use Google to get a good translation) about the very need to greet those sharing the trail with you.

First, and in my mind of major importance, is the practical purpose of being able to recognize those whose paths we have crossed in case you – or they – encounter trouble. Details of where they were and when can help rescuers immensely. Using a greeting to a passerby can imprint that person on your memory and you on theirs.

How easy to lift a hand in greeting or say “Hi.”

It helps to learn the words in the local languages.

  • Ciao, Salve, and Buongiorno do the trick in Italy. They mean Hi, Hello (formal), and Good Morning, respectively. Note that Buongiorno works as “hello” throughout the day.
  • Guten Morgan, Hallo, Guten Tag, and Grüß Gott are used in Germany and most of Switzerland, the first often abbreviated as simply Morgan.
  • In Switzerland you’ll encounter Grüezi quite often, except in the eastern French-speaking areas where, not surprisingly, you’ll hear Bonjour.

It is common to extend your greeting in one language and hear something entirely different in return. Grüezi may invite Grüß Gott especially from Bavarians. If “Hello” works best for you, great!

The article underscores other great practices.

  • “Pack it in, pack it out” is a familiar mantra for wilderness campers, but it matters just as much for walkers. Don’t toss apple cores or orange peels on the trail; biodegradable does not mean harmless. Human waste should always be removed. A bear can go in the woods; you need to leave no trace. Our books recommend carrying small bags in your daypack for this purpose. We prefer zipper bags, which can be harder to find in Europe, so it’s best to bring some from home—along with wet wipes.
  • Silence and Calm. No one walks along singing “The Happy Wanderer.” No one. Respect nature and enjoy the sounds of the birds. Engage in quiet conversation with your hiking partners but keep the raucousness for the pub afterward. I would add, when walking in the mountains, ear buds and audio books are probably not a good idea. Be alert to your environment for safety if nothing else.

Julie Andrews may have sung to the hills. You should not.

Avoid animal encounters. The most dangerous thing Ric and I have encountered is a herd of trail-blocking cows. They were HUGE and we were hesitant to disturb them. The area surrounding the trail was uneven and rocky and also occupied by the cows. No way to pass. (This was in the Alpe di Siusi, my photo below.) Luckily, along came a German-speaking woman clearly used to dealing with livestock and she was not afraid of shooing them along.

Trail blocking cows can be intimidating but especially give the nursing mothers a wide berth! Cows can be absolute bears regarding their offspring. Never come between them.

We are off on our annual adventure soon. This year’s trip theme is Mountains, Mountains, and More Mountains. We will seldom be below 5000 feet above sea level. Since we live at 210, that’s quite a difference. There will be cows and plenty of other trekkers. A third book is in the works featuring walking in Switzerland’s Graubünden Region, especially the Upper Engadine. Watch this space!

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A week of castles

17 May

17 May 2026.

It started last Sunday with a delightful walk around the periphery of Berwick-upon-Tweed in Northumberland. We walked four miles around Elizabethan-era town walls and on a coastal trail then ended via a nature path and the historic ruins of the eponymous castle, now the domain of sheep.

Sheep safely graze under castle ruins in Berwick-upon-Tweed, UK.

Unusually cold weather with high winds (24mph gusting to 35 or more!) found us at another castle on Monday, Bamburgh (BAM–bruh) on the rugged coast of Northumberland. It just was not the day to walk the coastal trail so we tramped around an enormous and well-restored castle. Thank goodness for a cozy pub in which to retreat after the tour!

The imposing Bamburgh Castle, with history dating back 1400 years, privately owned by the Armstrong family and featured in The Last Kingdom. Rebuilt by the Normans after the conquest.
Yes, it is bloody cold and WINDY here on the North Sea. Not an easy hiker day so good for castle crawling. At least we got out of the wind.
Bamburgh Castle featured costumes and props from the series The Last Kingdom.

Tuesday, it was time for Alnwick (AHN-ick) Castle. Still not easy-hiker weather with high, gusting winds and a moderate threat of rain (which never materialized) we boarded the bus again for a trip down the coast, this time to the village of Alnwick. Much more village than town, dominated by the recognizable stand-in for Hogwarts in a couple of the Harry Potter movies and was also a Downton Abbey filming location. This is a very elegant castle, privately owned by the 12th Duke of Northumberland. His “other” castle is down the road at Warkworth.


Alnwick Castle is exceedingly elegant. The family lives in it during winter, but moves out during high touring season. The St. Cloud University in Minnesota occupies part of the castle for a semester abroad program. Students live and study here.

Wednesday’s weather was dreadful in forecast and actuality as of 7:00AM, so I texted our friends in Edinburgh to see if they were free for lunch. Edinburgh is less than an hour’s train ride north on a lovely LNER train. Castles were not on our mind; having inside places to visit was and museums abound in this historic city. Arriving in Edinburgh at 10:30 AM, the skies were clearing and the city was buzzing so we did what we like to do: we walked. A lot. And of course our route led us past another historic and grand castle, Having visited before we did not make the climb but the views were great, the weather lovely if still cool, and seeing our friends after eight years, a delight! And we walked our socks off!

High above the Princes Street Gardens, perches the castle. We were treated to a noon concert by this talented piper.
Angela and Chris visited us exactly 8 years ago in Lincoln City. We were glad we all recognized each other. :-)

Alas Thursday was a travel day, moving on to Newcastle-on-Tyne so no castle tours. Of course on Friday we had to go see the castle at Newcastle, aka Castle Garth.

The Castle Garth with magnificently maintained and restored keep. We climbed and climbed spiral stone staircases to the upper levels.
The Great Hall of the keep is magnificent Norman architecture. Though the site was earlier used as a Roman fort, the first castle was built by William the Conqueror’s son, Robert Curthose in 1080 as the New Castle upon Tyne. Henry the II built the stone keep.

So we moved on to Ireland Saturday, arriving in Killarney in time for dinner. What should we encounter our first morning, our first outing, our first stop today? A castle!

Ross Castle, Killarney National Park.

Easy-hiking resumed today. We have a week of outings in the national park planned. Weather may be drizzly but we’ve left the cold North Sea and its winds behind so we aren’t going to let the light rain get in the way too much. Plus there are scads of cozy pubs for warming up.

More to come!

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The week that was…in Whitby

7 May

7 May 2026.

The first sign that something was up in Whitby appeared when we changed trains in Middlesbrough, Yorkshire. Half-a-dozen young people dressed in black, Victorian-inspired attire looked out-of-place among the travelers in casual Saturday clothes, taking their dogs to walk the paths of the Esk River Valley. Of course, Whitby, with its abbey ruins, evocative atmosphere, and local stories, was Bram Stoker’s inspiration for his famous work, “Dracula” when he visited here in 1890.

Today, Whitby, a British seaside resort town on the edge of the North York Moors National Park, hosts twice-a-year Goth Weekends, and the faithful flock here dressed to kill. Arriving at the station we found hundreds of Goth-dressed observers here to honor the legend. 80-year-olds in expensive, custom apparel rub shoulders with families with young children in suitable garb and teenagers in thrift store castoffs and elaborate makeup. Luckily, the weather on Saturday was perfect for promenading through town and making the pilgrimage trek up the 199 steps to the abbey.

View of the Whitby Abbey ruins with brooding St. Mary’s Church in front. Note the long — 199 steps — staircase. Yup, we climbed it with our rubbery, flatlander live-in-a-house-without-stairs knees.

The steps would have to wait. We had only just arrived by the scenic train through the Esk River Valley. It was a long and eventful travel day: London to York by lovely first-class train with a stressful change to a bus from York to Middlesbrough. The train was late and the planned bus left five minutes before we arrived at the stop, which was a quarter mile trudge with luggage from the train station. Our connection in Middlesbrough threatened to become a four-hour delay but the train service LNER fortuitously added an extra bus as it was a heavy travel day in a Bank holiday weekend. All of England was on the move!

A two-plus hour bus ride is not a choice we make if it is possible to avoid. Work on the rail line to Whitby caused the routing. Availing ourselves of seats at the front of the bus and had a splendid view of little villages and quaint farms, and the unintelligible commentary of the driver. Overall, it was not bad. The subsequent train ride to Whitby was delightful! Bouncing new lambs in verdant fields; hedgerows and dry-stone walls criss-crossing the countryside; canary-yellow fields of rapeseed; walkers and their dogs enthusiastically boarding the train after their treks.

We are passing a week in Whitby. There is ancient history here: the original abbey was founded as a monastery in the 7th century. The Vikings destroyed it, but the Benedictines resurrected the site as an abbey in 1078, after the Norman Conquest. We can thank Henry VIII for destroying the abbey during his war on Catholicism creating picturesque ruins. Most infamously, the abbey was Bram Stoker’s vision for his novel.

What Bram Stoker saw, more-or-less, from his perch on the bluff. Today, a caravan park nudges up against it on the other side and The Cleveland Way passes directly by.

It’s chilly this week, but the rain has held off at least while we are walking. The extensive 109-mile Cleveland Way runs through this area, where we are walking daily in the North York Moors National Park including short coastal sections of the Cleveland Way. Very scenic, hugging the cliffs above rocky beaches and steep headlands, sometimes quite windy.

We’ve had a couple of “path to lunch” outings, with a charming pub awaiting mid-walk.

A random selection of photos from the week so far. Please click on a photo for a brief caption, if interested.

Sadly, the North York Moors Railway is not running to Whitby due to the same works on the line that plagued our arrival.

Our apartment for the week meets all our criteria: ground floor, washing machine, walk-in shower, full kitchen, and a coffee-pod machine. We no longer stay where we lug suitcases up stairs or climb over steep-sided British tubs to use the shower. If I am going to injure myself, I will do it outdoors, not in the shower.

We have not heard one word of American-accented English, and only once a couple speaking anything other than English. Most of our fellow travelers are from the UK, it seems.

From here, we head to Northumberland and the town of Berwick-on-Tweed. More from there soon!

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Crossing Borders

8 Oct

8 October 2025.

Monday we walked from Switzerland to Germany, passing closed border-control booths. Not in a high-mountain pass. A suburban street was our path, once again, to lunch.

Staying in Basel is part of our experiment this trip: two weeks in each of three new-to-us-places, exploring, finding places less-visited by our ilk, and “living local.” Basel is in a unique international position, a notch of Switzerland that juts into France and Germany and shares the Rhine River with both. This is a strategic shipping hub for Switzerland and the Dreiländereck, where the countries officially meet, is a mere half-hour’s walk from our apartment. Of course, since it is Switzerland, walking there is quite simple.

Our border crossing experience was not as straightforward. Ignoring spits of rain, we traveled by tram (so convenient!) to suburban Riehen to take the Rehberger-Weg, an artistically inspired walk between the Fondation Beyeler Museum and the Vitra Campus (a furniture company and design museum). Finding the start of the path was our first adventure as a construction project forced a detour. The track seemed obvious from there, but as we searched for the first piece of art we found we were off piste. Huh. Luckily, as paths cross-cross this country like plaid in a tartan, we were able to re-route ourselves with only a half mile walk for our trouble.

Top left and center, our inadvertent detour was at least well-trod and scenic; Top right, a vineyard; Bottom a distant view of Basel.

In my defense, I was guiding us with a very stylized map created by the artist. You can see it for yourself using the link above and clicking on Walking Map. Once I decoded what actually constituted art and which landmarks on the map corresponded, the going was simple enough and the views to Basel remarkable. We passed through small vineyards and past garden allotments, encountered little traffic and even fewer people. The art is, to me, obscure. They are (mostly) three-dimensional, brightly colored objects that allude to real things: a birdhouse, a streetlamp, a tree. We had fun making fun of them.


Top Row: Lookout, big enough for a human to climb into; Streetlamp; Signs. Bottom Row: Drinking Fountain (yes, it works!); Tree

The possibility of rain evaporated and we arrived at the Vitra Campus just in time for our Noon lunch reservation. Lunch in Germany, priced in Euros, was a treat both gastronomically and economically. A bus directly to our neighborhood left from Vitra every half-hour made our return uncomplicated.

Top Row: Vegan quiche and organic salad at VitraHaus Cafe; A Vitra-designed chair for €429 which doesn’t seem bad until you realize it is a miniature like those in the case in the bottom row; A bit of elephant whimsy. They are for sale.

The path was envisioned as a 10-year project in 2015, and it officially ends this month. Presumably, the art along the route will go away…at least in time. We were lucky to have it as a guide.


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