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Medico

24 Oct

Thanks to our overseas move, I’ve spent more time in medical offices in 2012 than I did in the ten years prior.  Dental, optical, general medical: you name it I had it checked. None of it because I was ill, mind you. I had hoped the appointments would end when we arrived, but a minor problem had me heading to a specialist in August. Luckily the Embassy refers us to English-speaking physicians so language is not a barrier. But there are surprising differences in our systems.

In Italy, staff is limited. The doctor met with me alone. Completely alone. There was no one else present, primarily I assumed because it was the end of the Ferragosto holiday period, but the experiences of friends – and one appointment Ric had – point to a trend: There is not a lot of support staff. One American doctor who is familiar with the situation here told me “they can’t afford a lot of extra people in the practice.” Still, there are not many American physicians who would treat a woman alone in his office, no one else even in shouting distance. There would be fear of allegations of inappropriate behavior. Maybe that happens here, too, but it doesn’t seem to paralyze. It certainly did not bother me.

It’s all about conversation. There were no forms to fill out or extraneous medical history. Just info pertinent to the problem at hand. Maybe that was because I was referred in and a foreigner.  (As an aside, I can’t even buy coffee at the Nespresso Store without having given my codice fiscale — sort of like a social security number or Tax ID — and it is not uncommon to be asked your date of birth as a form of ID, almost as nonchalantly as asking for a cell phone number.) The doctor simply engaged me in conversation: What is your problem and why are you here? What’s the family history? OK, let’s take a look.

Doctors do their own billing. Again confirmed by an Italian friend: yup, it’s routine if they want to get paid. I suppose this pertains only to private patients that are not on national healthcare, but imagine my surprise when I received an email from the doctor, at 8:00PM that same night, with a full report and bill.  (In a future post I’ll tell you about bill payment and banking. Another cultural shift.)  As if to prove it is not an anomaly, when Ric had a medical visit the doctor hand wrote an invoice and gave it to him. We were surrounded by fascinating and state-of-the-art healthcare and diagnostic technology, but the bill is written out long hand. It probably took less time to do it by hand than to submit the details to a billing department that would spew out an invoice. And neither Ric’s appointment nor mine cost nearly what one might expect from a specialist. Low-overhead = Sensible bills? Could be.

Doctors spend time with you.  Kaiser Permanente docs seem to have 15-minute increments for patient care. My doctor must have spent 75 minutes with me, not only on the medical issue at hand, but just talking: His vacation, my vacation, summer in Rome, working in an embassy, his time in Texas. It was nice. And he personally answered several emails.  The guy is a world-class vascular surgeon and he’s answering emails about my minor issue. No advice nurse, no middleperson, no gatekeeper receptionist. He even made my surgical appointment personally. (Although I did have a challenging moment in language use when I spoke to the hospital billing office. I always love it when they say my Italian is better than their English. That means their English is really limited. )

Doctors answer their own phones. Ric was given a phone number – turned out to be a cell phone – by the Embassy doc and called for an appointment. The specialist answered his own phone, made his own appointment, and when we arrived we found this excellent specialist in a one-man office. Very simple, very hands on, and (we think) very effective. There is no diluting the doctor-patient conversation. Need an ECG or an Echocardiogram? The doctor will do it.  No technician, no nurse, no waiting.

Patients have a greater degree of personal responsibility. Need lab tests? There’s a lab up the street. Send the doctor the results when you get them.  This means in all likelihood you will go for the lab test then have to go back in two days to get the results, scan them and email them to the doctor.

So no charming pictures of quaint villages this post. Just an observation of unique – not bad – cultural differences. Interestingly Italy is known for having the 2nd best health care system in the world (France is first). The U.S. is #37, but we spend more.  I’m sure some of the reason for the high-ranking is due to access to national healthcare, but they spend less than we do in the U.S., and rank higher. There’s no lack of knowledge or technology; these are good doctors with all the resources and expertise one would expect. But the story is not over. On Thursday I will have un piccolo intervento chirurgico (minor surgery). I’m sure I will have more stories.

OK you made it through an all text post. Here’s a beauty shot bonus. I can walk by this every weekend. SIGH.

Nobody does it better: Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, Piazza Navona.

Chianti Weekend

12 Sep

ImageI am told to be a successful blogger you have to post at least twice a week. Clearly I am not successful. This “thing” can take over your life. I am always looking at a cultural tidbit, beautiful view, piece of art, or an incident with an eye toward a blog entry. But somehow life gets in the way of actually making that entry.

Since last I wrote, I have been immersed in Italian lessons 4 or 5 days each week (an hour at a time), plus homework. Ric has started lessons too, 2 or 3 times each week. We have continued to enrich our understanding of this grand city seeing more museums, historical sites, and of course expanding our culinary knowledge.  And some extraordinary events have led to bus trips to previously unexplored sections of the city. I entered the Italian medical system (just minor!) which is a lengthy story in itself of interesting contrasts with the North American medical culture. In between events we actually manage to go to work.

We have also had guests, and this past weekend our nephew Eddie invited us along on a trip to the Chianti Region, where he had rented a house. This is the early morning view from the deck.

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What a lovely way to wake up! Sipping stong Italian coffee while the sun creeps over the valley. The occasional bark of a dog or crow of a cock is all you hear.

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Lovely setting: quaint, practical, with a drop-dead gorgeous view.

We passed briefly through Firenze, then headed out to the countryside. Our family had discovered a sagre (festival centered on an agricultural specialty) in Grevè in Chianti, where for €10.00 you could taste up to 7 wines. (Or if they “forgot” to punch your ticket, maybe 10, or 14.) We met lovely people from all over the world helping out with the sagre and intent on the upcoming harvest. We spent the evening at our Tuscan retreat grilling Bistecca alla Fiorentina and enjoying some local wines.

The next day we ventured to San Gimignano, followed by a visit to Villa Vignamaggio, famous not only for its wine, but as the home of the woman who posed for DaVinci’s Mona Lisa. It was also the site of the 1993 movie Much Ado About Nothing. They were kind enough to not only show us the cellars (which date back over 500 years), but to share some product.  There is a B&B at Villa Vignamaggio, which begs a return visit.

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Wine tasting and Tuscan specialities at Vignamaggio. A bit more formal than our Oregon experiences.

I can hardly describe the peacefulness of this place. Eddie’s rented villa was one of the quietest places we have ever stayed. The deck looked out over a lovely valley with village lights in the distance. We heard only the occasional barking dog. While star-gazing an enormous “shooting star” lit up the sky in a way you never experience in a city.

Clearly I’ve been much too busy to write.

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The lovely Helen poses with a Tuscan wild boar. This shop and its delightful owner were the source of our hand cut bistecca alla fiorentina.

Summertime and the city is deserted

18 Aug

Everywhere you go, businesses are closed. Some are closed for the whole month, some for a week or two.

18 August 2012

Every blogger seems to be writing about Ferragosto, the heat, and the Italians fleeing the city. Lacking a family casa al mare (house by the sea) we are, of course, here working. And this city is indeed a strange place this month!  Ferragosto is the Italian late-summer holiday introduced by Emperor Augustus, now a big family day (think beach, lunch with Grandma) and also a religious day, The Feast of the Assumption. Many people build a vacation around it, much as Americans would do around Independence Day.

7:00AM – There should be trams, a bus or two, several motorini, and dozens of cars. Niente this week!

There’s little or no street construction, so noise is  reduced considerably. Many apartments are empty and we hardly see any lights on at night in the neighborhood. Portieri (building superintendents) are on duty all month to provide extra security for vacant apartments.

At lunch, you might have to hunt around for a small cafe to even find a sandwich. Some grocery stores shorten their hours or close for a couple of weeks to remodel. We also hear evidence of some indoor remodeling work as apartment owners have projects addressed while they are on vacation.

Piazza Fiume, major bus plaza, deserted

5:15PM Friday – This piazza is usually a chaotic mix of cars, motorscooters, buses, taxis and pedestrians. Not yesterday during my “rush hour.”

At the office the phone doesn’t ring, there’s less mail, few visitors, and meetings are cancelled for lack of attendees.

In the evening, there’s a sense of desertion. It’s eerie in a Zombie-Apocalypse sort of way. Buses still run, but some are less frequent. One part of the Metro is shut down for renovation.  Why not? Ridership is down. So what if tourists are confused?  It will reopen in time for back-to-school-and-work.

Summertime and the parking is easy! Usually filling up with commuters when I walk through, this street is in Villa Borghese. The dogs playing in the park have disappeared and the joggers are few.

Except for major tourist areas, the buses are almost deserted and on schedule.

Poor Man's Limo - Alone on the bus

Usually I have to stand on the way home, at least until the last few stops. This week, I not only get a seat, but I am the last one on the bus for almost half the trip.

We were kind of dreading August: the heat, the stories about closures and inconvenience. However, I think I am going to like August here.

  • My morning commute (walk) is serene and I don’t have to dodge traffic
  • I have time to catch up on projects at work
  • We avoid cooking as much as possible  and go out to the restaurants that remain open

And sometimes we get marvelous thunderstorms!

We grew up in thunderstorm country and missed them while in Portland, where they are neither frequent nor intense. In Rome they are intense, if not frequent. Monday we were treated to a two-hour show! (Although I did get soaked on the way home.)

Pizza night

12 Aug

Every Friday night is pizza night for us. Last Friday night we set off for a new place, about a 25 minute walk from our apartment, only to arrive and find a sign Chiuso for ferie (Closed for the holidays) until late August!  Yes folks, it is Ferragosto an ancient Roman tradition started by Emperor Augustus (it is his month after all), and co-opted by the Catholic Church as the “Feast of the Assumption.”  Ferragosto is a one-day holiday on August 15 that can be expanded up to a full month for small businesses that choose to shut down. What makes our experience worse, Ric had walked by on Thursday to make sure they were open: they were and no sign about ferie. I  had called for reservations and was successful. But there are two restaurants with the same name and I had called the one across town. Upon arrival, we found the sign, hastily posted that very day. Chiuso. We salvaged Friday night with a nice little dinner in a cafe across from our targeted establishment and had a fine experience. But we hadn’t had our weekly pizza!

So Saturday  we ventured far across Rome to Trastevere (literally “across the Tiber”) and wound our way through alleys to find once again Dar Poeta.

Dar Poeta – Absolutely worth the wait! The expediter did a great job. Tables cleared quickly and we were seated in about 20 minutes.

We had eaten lunch here in October 2010. No crowds at lunch as Romans don’t eat pizza for lunch.  Despite the crowd last night, we waited only about 20 minutes.

From their English language webpage: Our pizza isn’t neither roman pizza (low and thin), nor neopolitan pizza (thick on the edge and spongy), our pizza is . . . DAR POETA. We remembered it being good from our 2010 visit, but it really is the best we’ve had in Rome so far.

Ric had a zippy lingua di fuoco (tongue of fire: hot salami and peppers), while I sought out the non-traditional salmone e fiori di zucca (salmon and zucchini flowers). So happy! Sorry, but I ate about a third of it before thinking of all of you in the Pacific NW who would love to see salmon on a pizza.

Starring lox and zucchini flowers, by American standards, not a “normal” pizza, but my was it delicious!

No red sauce, lots of cheese, a sprinkling of parsley dress up lox and zucchini flowers. Hop on down to Papa Murphy’s and see if they can whip one up for you. Oh, and for the uninitiated, in Italy you get a whole pizza to yourself (about the size of a dinner plate) and it arrives uncut. That’s why we have to walk so much. (That and the wine.)

We will continue our search for the best pizza so when you come to Rome to visit, the work will be done for you. We don’t mind helping out. You can thank us later.

BTW, we get Wednesday off as a paid holiday. Rome is already a ghost town as so many people are on vacation, so we’ll see what it’s like on the actual holiday. Buon Ferragosto!

A castle and a palazzo

6 Aug

We had a busy and fun weekend. While some would cower in air-conditioned comfort, we headed out to experience more of Rome. The key is to go early, come home by noon-ish, then back out at night. There’s too much to do in Rome in the summer! You can’t curl up under the covers like LibbyJean!

Saturday we always go to Campo dei Fiori, a busy busy market almost any day of the week. We love the bustle and hustle, and access to the best salumi in all of Rome: Antica Norcineria Viola. Unfortunately now closed for ferie, so we have to make do with our stockpile until he returns in September.

Beautiful vegetables and the best salumi in Rome.

We also had our usual cappucino and pastry, this time con mele e crema, near Santa Maria della Pace.

Saturday night, after dinner at our favorite little trattoria, we ventured to Castel Sant’Angelo for Notti d’Estate (Summer Nights), and a special tour including the Passetto di Borgo (secret passage allowing the Pope to escape if the Vatican was sacked — and it was), prisons, and the bathroom of Clement VII.

Castel Sant’Angelo aglow, beckoning.

The English tour, for which we had reservations, was at 22:45. We were there by 22:00, looked around a bit, and then waited for our tour to be called. At 22:50 I asked “When will the English tour start?” Madam it has already left! We never heard or saw anyone claiming to be an English tour guide…. So we joined an Italian tour and vowed to return later this summer and pick up an English version so as to get all the details. Lucky for us, tours continue into September. And with the lovely nights we have in Rome, it will be a good excuse to stay out late once again.

We were able to climb to the ramparts and look down on the Tiber River, the crowd in front of the castle, and the gorgeous moon over Rome.

Playing with water: fun for kids of all ages. There are “nasone” and other little drinking fountains like this all over Rome. Ric demonstrates his technique. Block the flow with your finger creating a stream to drink from.

It really was a gorgeous night. The river was still and Rome glowed like it was lit by torches. That’s St. Peter’s Basilica on the right in the picture.

Bridge reflected in the Tiber; Basilica San Petro on the right.

Sunday we ventured out early to see a photo exhibit at the Museo di Roma in Palazzo Braschi. While the photos were great (Italian movie stars of the 40s, 50s and 60s), the star real was Palazzo Braschi

The art is interesting, but Palazzo Braschi is the star.

Featuring many scenes of Rome as painted during the Renaissance, it is fun to see how things looked to the artists of the time. Palazzo Braschi was the perfect stage for its collection.

The massive staircase was like an Escher painting.

This captivating capital crowns one of the many red granite pillars and is typical of the amazing detail in Palazzo Braschi.

Fabulous detail throughout, this captivating capital is typical.

Residents of Rome get a reduced price, and those residents over 65 with a Carta d’Identia get in free. (There are reductions  for residents at many attractions.) We had the place almost to ourselves. Once you have seen the Vatican Museums, the Capitoline, and the Borghese, it’s nice to avoid the huge crowds and escape to one of Rome’s many lesser-known sites.

You never know who you’ll see in a museum. We thought this papal bust looked like Vincent Price.

Palazzo Braschi exits right onto Piazza Navona.

Sunday afternoon we spent at home, and after sunset, a gelato outing capped the weekend. Perfect!

Have a great week everyone!