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An apple a day

19 Jul
19 July 2015. If an apple a day keeps the doctor away, does it count if it’s in your strudel? In the Alto Adige/Südtirol, strudel is as prevalent as Starbucks in Seattle. We have eaten many portions and many types over the course of several trips. This time I documented our not-quite-daily habit. Thank God we were hiking!
It never ceases to amaze me that no matter where we go, we get coffee in a ceramic cup and our food on plates with real flatware, served by nice people who do not expect a tip. Even at the ruins of a castle, in a tiny little village high above the valley, where the cafe was the size of a closet, the lady served our espresso in tiny ceramic cups with stainless spoons that we carried out to a picnic table. And we could have had grappa if we had wanted! Compare that to the typical U.S. coffee-house or what passes for a restaurant in a national park: Styrofoam cups, paper plates, forks that break when you try to use them, self-service, and the expectation of a 20% gratuity.
July 8: Rainy day strudel in Selva. Our first strudel of the trip, while taking shelter in the town. Big apple chunks and a pie-pastry-like crust.
July 8: Rainy day strudel in Selva. Our first strudel of the trip, while taking shelter in the town. Fabulous apple-pie flavor and a light, crust.
July 8: God help us, a two-strudel day! Anna, our landlady, invited us over in the afternoon for strudel hausgemacht. How could we say no?
July 8: God help us, a two-strudel day! Anna, our landlady, invited us over in the afternoon for strudel hausgemacht. How could we say no?
July 9: High-Mountain strudel at Passo Sella. We had a long hike, punctuated by a stop for healthy yogurt, so we indulged in a cinnamon-flavored, raisin-packed variety with a more cake-like crust.
July 9: High-Mountain strudel at Passo Sella. We had a long hike, punctuated by a stop for healthy yogurt, so we indulged in a cinnamon-flavored, raisin-packed variety with a more cake-like crust.
Not a bad view for strudel tasting at Passo Sella.
Not a bad view for strudel tasting at Passo Sella.
July 10: Today, yogurt with fresh berries replaces strudel at 2153 meters above sea level. Berries tasted fresh-picked.
July 10: Today, yogurt with fresh berries replaces strudel at  Rifugio Emilio Comici, 2153 meters above sea level. Berries tasted fresh-picked.
The Rifugio Emilio Comici is perhaps the most amazing mountain "refuge" we've seen.
The Rifugio Emilio Comici is perhaps the most amazing mountain “refuge” we’ve seen.
July 11: Rifugio Rasciesa is always a favorite stop for a snack or for lunch. Big fruit, light crust. Asked for panna but they forgot. :-(
July 11: Rifugio Rasciesa is always a favorite stop for a snack or for lunch. Big fruit, light crust. Asked for panna but they forgot. 😦
July 14: Rifugio Malga Brogules sits beneath the Seceda Plateau, and still the rifugio is at 2045 meters above sea level. And still they serve home-baked strudel, of a more cake-like variety.
July 14: Rifugio Malga Brogules sits beneath the Seceda Plateau, at 2045 meters above sea level. And still they serve home-baked strudel, of a more cake-like variety.
Little Rifugio Malga Brogules, beneath the Seceda Plateau.
Little Rifugio Malga Brogules, beneath the Seceda Plateau.
July 16: Best-in-Trip Award goes to the strudel at Hotel Saltria in the Alpe di Siusi. A mountainous piece served with lots of panna, flaky crust, heaps of fruit, raisins and pine nuts. Although we hiked 2 hours to get here, it ruined the possibility of lunch for the day.
July 16: Best-in-Trip Award goes to the strudel at Hotel Saltria in the Alpe di Siusi. A mountainous piece served with lots of panna, flaky crust, heaps of fruit, raisins and pine nuts. Although we hiked 2 hours to get here, it ruined the possibility of lunch for the day.
Our view while gorging on strudel at Hotel Saltria.
Our view while gorging on strudel at Hotel Saltria.
July 18: Last strudel of the trip, eaten overlooking the same scene we cast our eyes on Christmas Day, Hotel Icaro in the Alpe di Siusi. Surrounded by a cake batter, the fruit was flavorful and the strudel loaded with pine nuts as well. Panna of course1
July 18: Last strudel of the trip, eaten overlooking the same scene we cast our eyes on Christmas Day, Hotel Icaro in the Alpe di Siusi. Surrounded by a cake batter, the fruit was flavorful and the strudel loaded with pine nuts as well. Panna of course!
Looking across the Alpe di Siusi from the terrace at Hotel Icaro. A bit of a change from our Christmas Day scene, below.
Looking across the Alpe di Siusi from the terrace at Hotel Icaro. A bit of a change from our Christmas Day scene, below.
Taken from Hotel Icaro terrace on Dec 25, 2015. We only had cappuccino this time.
Taken from Hotel Icaro terrace on Dec 25, 2015. We only had cappuccino this time.

 

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Hot!

7 Jul
As I write this it is 82F/27C in Ortisei, in the Val Gardena, Italy. It’s not supposed to be that hot here! We came to cool off, expecting 70F/21C or so.
I told Ric, "Try not to show how much I am sweating." On the trail to Saltria.
I told Ric, “Try not to show how much I am sweating.” On the trail to Saltria.
I know! I know! Roma is worse at 91F/32C, and poor Portland, OR is expecting a wilting 92F/33C and is enduring the longest streak of 90+ days in history.  Even worse, the Alpe di Siusi, elevation >6,000 feet, hit 97F/36C for the second day in a row, the hottest temp ever recorded there, I was told by a local. Compare that to Abu Dhabi, which shows the same exact temperature. (Practically cool, isn’t it Francesco?)
Heat haze building already at 09:00, looking across to the Alpe di Siusi from our pre-hike cappucino stop.
Heat haze building already at 09:00, looking across to the Alpe di Siusi from our pre-hike cappuccino stop.
We can only hope this is an anomaly for Portland and the Val Gardena, that climate change isn’t going to ruin the summers.
In 2012 when we “discovered” the Val Gardena and the Alpe di Siusi for ourselves, we started out one morning at a brisk 44F/7C. Heaven compared to Roma, which was having the hottest summer in over 200 years. Our 2013 trip required starting each day with at least a sweater to ward off the chill, while in 2014 that sweater was topped with a windbreaker and I gave thought to buying a fleece.
Ric on the trail Monday, walking down from Rasciesa, a quad-straining descent of 863 meters/2827 feet.
Ric on the trail Monday, walking down from Rasciesa, a quad-straining descent of 863 meters/2827 feet.
Not so 2015. Still we are hiking, slathering on the sunscreen, gulping water, hugging tree-lined trails where possible. The nights are better, thank God, as air conditioning just does not exist in most lodgings, at least not in our price-range. In the next few days, Portland and Ortisei will cool off while Roma and the Alpe remain hot and Abu Dhabi returns to insufferable.
On a more positive note, this is a big first for us in 31 years of traveling together: we are staying two full weeks in the same place! We’ve been on longer trips, moving around, but never two weeks in exactly the same town/apartment. Truly a vacation. Yeah yeah yeah, I can hear  you now: “You’re retired; you need a job to be on vacation; blah blah blah.” All I can tell you is it is great and we have time. I do have to look at my pill minder to remind me of the day of the week.
We happened upon this carving in the middle of the forest, unsigned, a gift from a local woodcarver.
We happened upon this carving in the middle of the forest, unsigned, a gift from a local woodcarver.
More posts to follow! Aufwiedersehn/Arrivederci/Assudëi from the land of many languages, German, Italian and Ladin. More on that in the future.

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Where few Americans venture….

13 Jun
From Montese we ventured to Lago di Garda. I have to say I was not impressed, except by our lodging at the fabulous Erika Hotel. And we did have some fine meals, especially at Cirano, affordable, family-run, low key, with excellent wine suggestions. Lago di Como seems better set up for hiking, long ferry trips, and gawking at fabulous estates. Maybe we didn’t give Garda enough of a chance. And there was that issue with a tow truck. I was not driving. We may have to go back just to stay at Erika’s and to ride to Monte Baldo. But on to the Alta Pusteria.
Our balcony looked out over the Val Fiscalina, which runs deep into the mountains. We hiked to the end of the valley.
Our balcony looked out over the Val Fiscalina, which runs deep into the mountains. 
Our Italian friends raved about Sesto and Moso. They go every winter and we decided that this would be a great opportunity to see the area since we were already at Lago di Garda. We left Rick and Jane in Verona to go on a wine tour with some friends, and rented a car to continue on to Moso. The drive was spectacular and luckily the traffic was minimal as it was Sunday. I shudder to think of those narrow roads through the mountains with logging trucks coming and going.
Moso was very quiet on Sunday. We had a bottle of wine gifted to us by Riccardo of Trekking Italy and we had cheese and sausage leftover from our Montese picnic. The very kind landlady gave us some great multi-grain bread, and we found water at the one bar that was open. What more could we need for supper?
The entire apartment is constructed in the traditional style of the Sud Tirol. Here, our nook.
The entire apartment is constructed in the traditional style of the Sud Tirol. Here, our nook.
We stayed at an agriturismo that I found through Red Rooster.  Red Rooster specializes in small family properties in the Alto-Adige. They are family focused and very affordable. Kirschnerhof is right on main street in Moso, but is indeed a working farm, with 11 head of dairy cows. The warm fragrance of the barn wafted over the property in a not-unpleasant manner. The place was spotless and impeccably organized. We had a comfortable and attractive one bedroom apartment that would easily accommodate a family of 4 for a price you won’t find at a Motel 6 in Cook, Nebraska.
We were greeted by a plaque announcing this was °home° for a few days.
We were greeted by a plaque announcing this was °home° for a few days.
In this region English is a distant third to German and Italian. I would call this a region of reluctant Italians. They seem shocked to hear us speak Italian. Menus are in German and Italian, seldom English. One day at lunch the waiter clearly knew we were not local and although we greeted him in Italian and asked for a table, he warned us the menu was only in German and Italian, then never spoke another word of English to us. Frankly an Italian menu is always our preference even in Rome as the English translations are often quite odd and sometimes they leave out items. But I digress….
Tiny Moso, or Moos in German, with dramatic backdrop.
Tiny Moso, or Moos in German, with dramatic backdrop.
Hiking is the thing to do here unless you arrive in winter when skiing is the #1 activity. June is not high season so it was quiet. Half of Kirschnerhof was occupied, meaning two-out-of-four apartments and one room. It seemed every place had a sign saying zimmer frei. Baked goods lean to types more commonly found in Austria or Germany, while pastas dominate restaurant menus along with lots of potato dishes.  As we have found in other parts of the Alto-Adige, menus are a combination of Italian and German cuisines.
We spent three lovely days hiking. Well-marked trails made way-finding easy, something we have come to appreciate both in the Val Gardena and the Lauterbrunnen Valley in Switzerland. The ability to hike to a rifugio and find coffee and full-service menus along with clean restrooms is so civilized! Nothing like fresh strudel and espresso for elevensies! Not to mention a nice place to freshen-up, instead of crouching in the woods. Click any image below to enlarge or for a slideshow.
Ric along the path to Fondo Valle.
The broad Val Fiscalina is filled with meadows and woods and made for pleasant hiking.
Rifugio Fondo Valle.
The little stream is unbelievably clear.
This guy ascended with us in the cable car. A few minutes later he made a dramatic descent.
On the way to Monte Elmo, the path leads through Rifugio Gallo Cedrone. Always nice to find good espresso and a toilet along the path.
High above San Candido I needed my fleece jacket while having cappucino on the terrace of the rifugio.
On the trail to Fondo Valle.
Finding your way is easy.
Rifugio Fondo Valle, a nice place to hang out before the return hike.
I think this is a ranunculus. Spring flowers were abundant in the meadows.
I took this picture of a bunny at Fondo Valle especially for our niece, Elizabeth. Ciao E!!
It was cooler by far than Roma. It was in the low 50s, Fahrenheit, in the morning, so hauling along the fleece jackets and SmartWool socks turned out to be a good idea. One day the high in Moso was 21 Celsius/70 Fahrenheit. Roma was 31C/88F, which is not bad for Roma in summer, but it is hot for moving around.
The Montese hike reminded us we really do like hiking sticks, so we bought new ones in Moso, the nicest we’ve ever had. Too bad about the three sets sitting in Roma, but they are a pain-in-the-ass to carry along, so it seems we end up re-buying them on subsequent trips. Once we had a set in Switzerland that when extended properly for hiking refused to collapse for transport home so we left them in the room. The newest ones are more cooperative so I think they will make it onto the packing list for Ortisei in July. Am I digressing again?
On our last hike, downhill from Baranci, we came across the ruins of an old health spa. While the spa heyday was the late 19th and early 20th century, knowledge of the curative waters goes back to the 16th century. I’ll let the pictures do the talking. 
Grand Hotel Wildbad back in the day….
The trail takes on right past the ruins. Ric is in the foreground.
Another view of the ruins. But the water is still there and drinkable!
Obviously in disuse for many years, but a flock of sheep keeps the grasses under control.
Walking down from Baranci we came around a corner to find this tiny church.
Healthful waters… heals what ails you. I drank a bottle from the spring.
We met only German and Italian-speakers here. The common greeting from hikers on the trail is Gruß Gott. After all, we are only 6 km from Austria as the crow flies: Up until WWI, this was Austria. Although Italian is the official language for education, German is the cultural choice in the household and the first words uttered in any business location. Nonetheless, like Montese, it was a good opportunity for me to practice Italian. Is it truly where no Americans go? Probably not really, but for those who want an experience where one does not run into English-speaking tourists at every turn, this is a corner of Italy to try.
We came across this strange box in the woods.
We came across this strange box in the woods.
Upon opening the box we found a clever display about the woodpeckers in the area.
Upon opening the box we found a clever display about the woodpeckers in the area.
Inside was an old woodpecker nest, displayed in cutaway with Plexiglas protecting it.
Inside was an old woodpecker nest, displayed in cutaway with Plexiglas protecting it.
And the original hole bored by the woodpecker led to the display nest.
And the original hole bored by the woodpecker led to the display nest.

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Escape to Emilia-Romagna

8 Jun
The heat built fast in Roma. Ten days prior we were putting on our fleece jackets in the morning because it was cold in the apartment, but by the time my brother and sister-in-law arrived June 1, that was no longer a problem: it was getting warm. Luckily for us – if not for our cat sitters – we were leaving Roma. We also left behind the tourist hoards.
Lunch on the veranda at Corte d'Aibo is a family affair.

Lunch on the veranda at Corte d’Aibo is a family affair.

Heading to Emilia-Romagna on June 2 (the Festival of the Republic which celebrates the election in 1946 when the monarchy was rejected in favor of a republic), we left behind the Roma tourists only to find throngs of Italians. At least they were at lunch when we arrived at Agriturismo Corte d’Aibo. But that was the holiday and the last day of the Italian four-day weekend. Continuing on to our mountain destination of Montese, we found ourselves the only tourists at the very pleasant Hotel Belvedere .
This is not your average balsamico. This is Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, another thing entirely.

This is not your average balsamico. This is Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, another thing entirely.

I found Hotel Belvedere and Corte d’Aibo thanks to Riccardo of Trekking Emilia-Romagna. Somehow my SIL Jane and I hit on going to E-R and hiking, and I was fortunate to stumble upon Riccardo’s company. He put together a great itinerary for us including a tasting and tour at an acetaio called Ca’ dal Non,  lunch at the agriturismo, and a guided hike through the mountains, which saw significant action in World War II. The arrangements also included our hotel, breakfasts and dinners. All we had to do was show up and sweat a little on the hike.
Stefano, foreground, explains a fountain in the mountains to Jane, Rick and Ric. Multiple basins allowed people to use one for drnking water, the next for washing, and a final one for watering livestock.

Stefano, foreground, explains a fountain in the mountains to Jane, Rick and Ric. Multiple basins allowed people to use one for drinking water, the next for washing, and a final one for watering livestock.

During our hike, we learned about the flora, fauna and history of the area. The Gothic Line was here, a place where Germany was making a last stance in the north of Italy as the Allied Armies, having fought their way north through the boot, bombed the heck out of them, and unfortunately, also bombed the Italian villages.
We met an older man – he said he was 80 – who upon learning we were Americans said, “The Germans went away, the Americans left, and now there are no porcini.” He was jesting, but memories are long: although we “liberated” the area, the old growth forest was destroyed by both the German occupiers and the liberating armies, so the treasured porcini no longer grow there. We chatted in Italian for a while and when we commented on his good health and energy (after all he was taking the same long hike that was wearing out us 60-somethings) he said “They gave me an organ donor card and I told them ‘take anything you want; none of it works anyway!’”
Ric in our woodsy picnic spot, an area frequented by families on Sundays. This one surrounded a church that commemorated the civilians killed in the area.

Ric in our woodsy picnic spot, an area frequented by families on Sundays. This one surrounded a church that commemorated the civilians killed in the area.

Stefano, our guide, was a font of information and knew the area well, having grown up nearby in the famous cherry town of Vignola. He speaks excellent English having lived in the U.S. (He loves Seattle!) We lugged along Parmegiano-Reggiano, salume, bread, and fruit for a picnic, along with local Lambrusco and a homemade crostata, all supplied by the hotel. At the end of the trek, my pedometer wrongly said the hike was about 8 km, Stefano said 11, my brother estimated 12. It felt like 18.
We were then treated to a tour of a caseificio or cheese factory at Dal Contadino.  This was a multi-generational farm operation producing the famous parmigiano-reggiano as well as ricotta, marmalade, and more. It was fun to visit a typical small family operation and see the incredible labor that goes into making this cheese. The artigianale beers they served with the cheese really hit the spot after hiking. If you ever get a chance to drink White Dog Beer, do it.
At the top of Mount Belvedere there is a monument honoring the 10th Mountain Division.

At the top of Mount Belvedere there is a monument honoring the 10th Mountain Division.

I have to say that, whatever the length, the trek barely dented the calories we were consuming. The kind owners of Hotel Belvedere looked after us well. Clean, comfortable rooms with good showers, incredible food from classic pastas for primi to roasted rabbit, pork and steak for secondi. They were also experts in recommending local wines to complement their food and served some of the best grappa around. Compare this with an American town of 3400 people where your choice of wine with dinner might be beer.
Montese has a castle dating back to the 13th century.

Montese has a castle dating back to the 13th century.

This was not high tourist season. In fact, it seems only August gets pretty busy. Otherwise Montese is off the radar of folks headed to more famous destinations. Nearby one can visit the Ferrari Museum in Maranello, the town of Modena, and even Parma is within reach.
After three nights we somewhat reluctantly said good-bye to Montese and the lovely folks at the hotel, as this was part one of a three-part trip. On to Lago di Garda!
Piazza in Montese, in front of the Hotel Belvedere.

Piazza in Montese, in front of the Hotel Belvedere.

We took one day away from Montese to journey to Maranello and the Ferrari Museum. Quite a collection!

We took one day away from Montese to journey to Maranello and the Ferrari Museum. Quite a collection!

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The Whos down in Whoville liked Christmas a lot

27 Dec
When Dr. Seuss wrote “The Grinch Who Stole Christmas” I think he must have had Ortisei in mind. It sits in a steep valley beneath snowy peaks reminding one of the “Whos down in Whoville.” As we descended yesterday from the highest lift station we could just make out the
From up here (in a gondola) Ortisei seems like little Whoville down in the valley.
From up here (in a gondola) Ortisei seems like little Whoville down in the valley.
village far below, and imagined the Grinch careening down the steep slopes to return the Christmas treasures. Instead we saw skiers launching off the mountain and enjoying a run of several kilometers albeit on mostly artificial snow. Ortisei calls itself Il Paese di Natale, and celebrates for 25 days, right up to Epiphany on January 6. They like Christmas a lot.
We spent a lovely Christmas Day in the Alpe di Siusi (if we are Facebook Friends you have already seen a few pictures from that hike), and on Santo Stefano (Dec. 26) we followed a local alpine guide from the Catores group on a hike to the Church of San Giacomo, which turned out to be a pretty good workout of 2 ½ hours roundtrip. I am pleased to say we old timers were not the slowest ones on the uphill stretch.
Dating to the 11th century, far above Ortisei. My Swedish ancestors were still practicing Norsk Mythology at that time, I think.
Dating to the 11th century, far above Ortisei. My Swedish ancestors were still practicing Norsk Mythology at that time, I think.
Fresco on San Giacomo, 15th century! There is also a quaint cemetery with a view to "die" for.
Fresco on San Giacomo, 15th century! There is also a quaint cemetery with a view to “die” for.
We also spent part of the evening in Ortisei to see the activity during the passeggiata and the fairy tale-like village transformed by holiday lights.
The Mercatino di Natale bustles even the night after Christmas.
What some countries call Boxing Day is Santo Stefano in Italy. The crowds are festive!
There are welcome warming fires scattered about.
La piccola chiesa in Ortisei, simply adorned.
There are 4 ice trees. illuminated from within. These are placed in the rushing river that runs through Ortisei.
Luckily we are able to be active (as was the point of this trip) to compensate for the amazing food we are consuming at Hotel Albion.
We are staying at what is for us one of the nicest places we have ever stayed. I would compare it to Salishan Lodge on the Oregon Coast in terms of elegance, although the Albion has a decidedly ski-sport bent versus the golf club sophistication at Salishan.  On a normal trip we stay in B&Bs, apartments and small hotels with a goal of spending no more than EURO 100.00 per night. Usually we are successful at that budget number on an average basis, and sometimes we get breakfast included. In planning this holiday trip, a gift to ourselves in lieu of stuff, we wanted to be a little pampered and stay somewhere special and memorable. I agonized over several choices in Ortisei, and while this one is expensive, it is half the price of the high-end properties here!
Like many European resort hotels, the meals are included in a half-pension plan.  Breakfast and dinner are included and are beyond ample. Breakfast offers almost every kind of fruit, a make-your-own juice bar, several choices of breads, pastries, eggs, sausages, assorted salume from speck to cotto, mortadella and salami, yogurt, muesli, jams, a honey bar (6 options!), a dozen types of cheese, and I would venture at least that many types of butter, flavored and not. This is the Tyrol and the northern influence on cooking brings butter to the forefront. Dinners are five courses including an amazing over-the-top salad buffet and an ever-changing menu of primi and secondi. We’ve enjoyed fish, shellfish, venison, quail, veal and duck as well as beautiful vegetarian dishes. I could go on but I won’t.
The clientele are from all over, although I am certain we are the only Americans on the property and probably the only native English speakers. Christmas morning we enjoyed hearing greetings of Joyeux Noel, Fröhliche Weinachten, and Buon Natale.
There is a shuttle to take us on demand to the lifts or to the village center. There is a spa including outdoor heated pool, which we have not had time to try. The only thing missing was snow, until today (Saturday) when it started during our hike and continued for about 8 hours.
Finally snow to compliment the lights, Hotel Albion.
Steam rises from the infinity pool while snow falls.
Our table at Hotel Albion, overlooking tiny Ortisei.
We took a woodsy walk in lightly falling snow on Saturday. Finally fresh snow!
Ric said I needed to be seen in something not pink. See? I have a blue fleece too.
This is our fourth Christmas in Italy, starting with our 2011 vacation here and now three years as residents. Family and friends, we miss you very much, especially at this time of year. We have traded greetings with many of you and have kept up on Facebook , which has been fun.  We keep ourselves entertained, but truly look forward to your visits here next year and to our planned extended visit to the U.S. in August. (Here we come, Seattle, Portland, and Durango!)
Here you see the plateau we hiked on Dec 24, Rasciesa. The view is from another peak, Seceda. The little black square is the rifugio where we ate lunch. See prior post.
Until the next time I think of something to say, Auguri e Buone Feste from both of us! May you have a blessed Anno Nuovo.

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