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La festa del ringraziamento

23 Nov

This is before we had the grappa.

I’m a little drunk right now (10:30pm). It might be because of the grappa the Swedes at the next table insisted we needed to try. We decided a few weeks ago that we could not recreate the usual American holiday spent with family and friends (you know who you are: Jonnie, Veronica, Barry, Derek, John, Susan, Debbie, Eddie), so we chucked it all and decided to embrace a different sort of Thanksgiving. We decided to continue our exploration of this marvelous city. Ric has to work tomorrow, and I committed to a couple of hours on Saturday, so leaving Rome was not an option.  We embarked on an urban hike up Monte Mario.It was a lovely fall day in Rome. We can see Monte Mario from our windows in Parioli and for

The green path up Monte Mario. Only 450 feet high!

the 6 months we have lived here have said, “We need to go see what’s up there.” So today was the day. Monte Mario is officially the highest peak in Rome at 450 feet. (Yes, Oregonians, it is a lightweight. Even Minnesota has a higher peak at Eagle Mountain. People here are always asking us how we manage the “hills” of Rome. To an Oregonian this is flatland.) Monte Mario was lovely! Rome is spread out at your feet, and the hoards are left far behind as only locals make the trek, often with their dogs. There is a magnificent vista from a cafe where we indulged in espresso and croissants. (Pictures from the top were less than stellar due to haze, but it was really quite stunning in person.) In 2 1/2 hours we covered Monte Mario and the Foro Italico (site of the 1960 Olympic Games and current soccer stadium). Great exercise. Va bene. In fact, this reminded us so much of our Portland “urban hikes” it was amazing!

We could be in Portland or in Rome, at this point.

So we explored a bit of Rome we had not seen before and worked off our dinner before we ate it.

We thought briefly about cooking a turkey. Very briefly. It’s a lot of work for only two people.  Once we discarded that idea of cooking, it was easy to decide what to do. This evening

Best melanzane al forno anywhere. If you come to visit I will take you here, blindfolded, I don’t want everyone going here.

we ventured to our favorite trattoria, where we were warmly greeted by the staff as we go here often (and have for two years now). With Australians on one side and Swedes on the other, we feasted on mussels, melanzane al forno (eggplant parmesan), and trippa. (Ric ate the trippa. I’m not having any part of that!) The mussels here are sweet and delicious. I could eat them all night. We also indulged in dessert and the Swedes insisted we needed to try the “good” grappa. My it was good! But it was also a good thing we weren’t driving! Every time we go to this restaurant we end up in conversation with wonderful people: Italians, Aussies, Swedes, French. (Not often Americans.) There were toasts to our American holiday, and reminiscing about favorite holidays in our respective countries. How lucky we are to have this experience in international living!Much love to you, our American friends and family. We’ll “do” turkey and all the trimmings with you again one day, but for 2012 this was our celebration. Hope yours was festive and that you were surrounded by love.

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Via Appia Antica

5 Nov

For the past few decades, there have been efforts by the State to preserve and protect the historic area, limiting construction, acquiring private property.

We’ve been wanting to take this trek for over a year. Missed it last December, and summer was too hot, so now that fall is here we took advantage of the Italian holiday (All Saints’ Day) on November 1 and ventured out.  I gave my “new” legs about an 8km (5 mile) test, the longest walk I had since prior to surgery. It felt great! It is difficult to believe this is so close to Rome: just a quick Metro + bus ride away.

Not much of a narrative this time, just some pictures to share.

Ruins of a famous villa and “circus” or chariot race track.

Very peaceful stretch of the Via Appia Antica. That’s Ric meandering in the distance.

A peek through the gates at a private estate.

We encountered many cyclists during our walk. We think the ancient stones would be a tough ride, but there are some dirt paths alongside the road.

Piece of a sarcophagus

Along the road one sees many artifacts such as this statue.

Tombs once lined the ancient road. There are some intact crypts to visit, and many crumbling structures such as this one.

On the sanctuary trail in the Cinque Terre

14 Oct

GIOVEDI

We arrived home Friday, and I am finally getting around to the last part of our trip report.

Our last full day, Thursday, we went back to the high trails, this time from Riomaggiore to the Santuario della Madonna di Montenero, one of five religious sanctuaries linked to the five villages. It is possible to hike between all five, although it is a very long hike.  We chose a hike to a magnificent vista that stretched from Monterosso al Mare to the north to Portovenere in the south. Breathtaking!

Also breathtaking was the  1,110 foot climb. Some people apparently had no idea what they were in for. On what planet is it OK for a woman of 60+ to open her shirt to cool off while hiking? Thank God she was wearing a bra. (That was a rhetorical question. The answer to “on what planet” is Germany.)

While the day was partly cloudy and rain threatened, it did not start to rain until we were done hiking for the day. Torrential rains in the afternoon must have made the locals fear a repeat of last October’s flood. Luckily, by nightfall it was  dry and we enjoyed another fabulous Ligurian meal overlooking the harbor at Manarola. We might have to come back next year….

The way up is far steeper than this looks. Many many stairs created and maintained by volunteers.

All along the trail, the “Via Grande,” were shrines to the Madonna, donated by various families. The “Via Grande” is described as “an ancient road.” These footpaths were essential transportation routes for centuries.

At the top, a church more than 119 years old. And few people.

View from the top looking south, all the way to Portovenere. Worth the climb!

The path is “paved” in many places, especially where it might wash out. But it is very rough and footing is tricky on the downhill portion. Sturdy hiking boots are in order.

As you can tell, we had a wonderful time in the Cinque Terre.  Walking and eating: What’s not to love?

There are so many daytrippers who do not have time to explore the  National Park. They merely get off the train, spend 37 minutes looking at the souvenir ships in a town, then move on and do the same thing in the next village. I actually overheard a woman telling her husband “We have 37 minutes here. That should be plenty of time.” Seriously?

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More postcards from the Cinque Terre

11 Oct

MERCOLEDI

Monday was a city walk (Lerici/San Terenzo) and Tuesday was a trail hike high above Manarola and Corniglia (see previous post), but our walks are always followed by lunch: sometimes substantial, sometimes a quick panino, and if possible there is wine. (Surprise! That’s how we know we are on vacation.)

Wednesday we took a journey to the north of the Cinque Terre – off the map according to Ric – to Portofino. But instead of arriving via yacht, as the glitterati would, we walked.   Well we took a train to Santa Margherita Ligure, then walked, about 1 ½ hours from the SML station, to lunch on the piazza in Portofino. Portofino is not far from Genoa, but it is a world away from the ruggedness of the Cinque Terre. It’s also crazily expensive.  Here are a few shots from our path and of our lunch.

Santa Margherita Ligure, as seen from across the bay, on our walk to Portofino. (Photo by Laurel Barton)

There are several small inlets along the path to Portofino, with beautiful houses, hotels, and beaches. (Photo by Laurel Barton)

The distinctive colors of Liguria are found here, too, along our path to lunch. Love the light! (Photo by Laurel Barton)

Wildlife in the bay enjoying the October sun. Oregon Zoo friends, please keep me honest: Are these cormorants? (Photo by Laurel Barton)

Almost there! Ric on the final leg of our walk, a paved path through the woods into Portofino. Very upscale! (Photo by Laurel Barton)

At last, 90 minutes later, we reached our objective and treated ourselves to a fine lunch in a fabulous location.

Mussels

Ah, lunch! Beautiful mussels and cold Vermentino wine. On the harbor in Portofino. Una bella vista! (Photo by Laurel Barton)

Ric’s choice: a seafood salad, served warm. (Photo by Ric Barton)

Portofino harbor and piazza, on a sunny, warm, and quiet midweek day in October. I shudder to think of the crowds in summer. (Photo by Laurel Barton)

We took the easy way back: a ferry across the bay from Portifino to SML and a train back to Manarola.

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Postcards from the Cinque Terre

9 Oct

Time for another vacation! As we like to say, you can only have a vacation if you have a job, and we have escaped to the Cinque Terre for hiking and seaside relaxation.  Here are a few favorite shots from the past three days. We will be here until Friday, so more to come!

DOMENICA

We arrived in Manarola (town #2 as some call it) in the Cinque Terre on Sunday afternoon by train from Rome. Headed out on a familiarization walk above the town, through the vineyards and down to the sea. Here a view back toward the town and its gelato-colored buildings.

As night fell, we walked to the upper part of town and settled in at the charming Trattoria dal Billy. Too bad we ate our beautiful seafood before I thought to take a picture. The view was intoxicating! The walk up is quite a climb, but the food and service made it worth the effort.

LUNEDI

Apologies for the crap smudges on my lens. Ugh!

Monday we traveled down the Ligurian coast to Lerici on the Gulf of Poets. Byron, Shelley, and D.H. Lawrence found this little corner of Italy to their liking as well. It’s a beach resort town in summer. On an autumn day it was still warm, but quiet in a post-season way. Pictured is Lerici Castle.

We walked from one end of the gulf to the other and back: Lerici to San Terenzo (pictured). I think we were the only non-Italians in the whole area. So peaceful! There were still some late season sun worshipers on the almost-deserted beaches.

Thanks to the blog http://www.apathtolunch.com/ for the guidance!

Many of you know Ric and I usually took an autumn trip to Cannon Beach, OR. This is our replacement for that habitual break. A little different, though….

Foccacia is a Ligurian specialty. Here it is in a very thin form, with a filling of spinach and a little sausage, freshly baked for our lunch, served with tomatoes and red wine. Could not finish it!

In the evening we went to the northernmost end of the Cinque Terre, Monterosso al Mare, for dinner and enjoyed this sunset.

At dinner, we were delighted to meet Christine, an American woman living in Monterosso, working at Cantina di Miky, and authoress of the blog, http://lifeinliguria.blogspot.com/  which I have been reading for months. GREAT MEAL! Again, photo not taken because we were so busy consuming beautifully prepared seafood.

MARTEDI

We awoke to rain, by the time we had eaten breakfast, it had stopped and the sun was peeking out from broken clouds. Hopped a bio-diesel shuttle for transport to Il Sentiero Rosso, the red trail, high above the sea.

The land has been terraced for centuries. The path passes through vineyards, olive groves, and gardens at a dizzying height.

The town of Corniglia (pronounced cor-KNEE-lee-a), from high-above. Once we descended to Corniglia on a very challenging footpath, we still had 400 brick steps to descend to the train station.

A view over the Ligurian Sea, from high above Corniglia looking toward Monterosso.

Alas, it is almost dinner time and we are eating with “The Pirates” in Vernazza! Dobbiamo andare via!

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