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Off-season travel

19 Jan

We are big fans of off-season travel. It’s not that we don’t like people, but crowds in hot weather, in cities and in museums, do make for a lesser quality experience in our opinion. So we selected January for a trip to Firenze, knowing it could rain, but also knowing there would be no crowds. Since Firenze is a museum-intensive town, rain would not present a huge problem.

Michelangelo's David (actually the copy) outside Palazzo Vecchio in Firenze.

Me and my shadow. Michelangelo’s David (actually the copy) outside Palazzo Vecchio in Firenze.

We’ve been here for 30 hours and done more in that time than we usually do in a 3 day trip: We’ve been to 5 museums and the Duomo and walked some 31,000 steps according to my pedometer. In the high season, with crowds, we’d never have lasted.  Luckily the rain has occurred only when convenient to us. It rained while we were sitting under cover at lunch; It rained when we were inside taking una piccola pausa today, and it rained when we sat for an aperitivo after tromping through the Uffizi Gallery. 

Last night was clear and moonlit contributing to a lovely romantic stroll and the opportunity to see the fine Giambologna sculptures in the Loggia dei Lanzi without anyone in the way. 

Moonlight over Piazza della Signoria, Firenze.

Moonlight over Piazza della Signoria, Firenze.

We saw the real David, in the Accademia, without having to wade through a thousand people. Truly a treat as Michelangelo’s unfinished Prigione also lacked observers. The Medici Chapels were almost deserted, and each and every room of the Palazzo Vecchio could be enjoyed.

Two Giambologna's, several Roman era pieces, and few human beings, Piazza della Signoria, Firenze.

Two Giambologna’s, several Roman era pieces, and few human beings. Piazza della Signoria, Firenze.

Don’t tell anyone, but hotel prices are lower in the off-season, vendors are willing to deal, and one does not have to dodge motorini in the pedestrian-only center of Firenze.

Empty tables hopefully awaiting patrons, Firenze.

Empty tables hopefully awaiting patrons, Firenze.

San Lorenzo Market, Sunday morning. No crowds; Bored vendors.

San Lorenzo Market, Sunday morning. No crowds; Bored vendors.

Chianti Weekend

12 Sep

ImageI am told to be a successful blogger you have to post at least twice a week. Clearly I am not successful. This “thing” can take over your life. I am always looking at a cultural tidbit, beautiful view, piece of art, or an incident with an eye toward a blog entry. But somehow life gets in the way of actually making that entry.

Since last I wrote, I have been immersed in Italian lessons 4 or 5 days each week (an hour at a time), plus homework. Ric has started lessons too, 2 or 3 times each week. We have continued to enrich our understanding of this grand city seeing more museums, historical sites, and of course expanding our culinary knowledge.  And some extraordinary events have led to bus trips to previously unexplored sections of the city. I entered the Italian medical system (just minor!) which is a lengthy story in itself of interesting contrasts with the North American medical culture. In between events we actually manage to go to work.

We have also had guests, and this past weekend our nephew Eddie invited us along on a trip to the Chianti Region, where he had rented a house. This is the early morning view from the deck.

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What a lovely way to wake up! Sipping stong Italian coffee while the sun creeps over the valley. The occasional bark of a dog or crow of a cock is all you hear.

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Lovely setting: quaint, practical, with a drop-dead gorgeous view.

We passed briefly through Firenze, then headed out to the countryside. Our family had discovered a sagre (festival centered on an agricultural specialty) in Grevè in Chianti, where for €10.00 you could taste up to 7 wines. (Or if they “forgot” to punch your ticket, maybe 10, or 14.) We met lovely people from all over the world helping out with the sagre and intent on the upcoming harvest. We spent the evening at our Tuscan retreat grilling Bistecca alla Fiorentina and enjoying some local wines.

The next day we ventured to San Gimignano, followed by a visit to Villa Vignamaggio, famous not only for its wine, but as the home of the woman who posed for DaVinci’s Mona Lisa. It was also the site of the 1993 movie Much Ado About Nothing. They were kind enough to not only show us the cellars (which date back over 500 years), but to share some product.  There is a B&B at Villa Vignamaggio, which begs a return visit.

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Wine tasting and Tuscan specialities at Vignamaggio. A bit more formal than our Oregon experiences.

I can hardly describe the peacefulness of this place. Eddie’s rented villa was one of the quietest places we have ever stayed. The deck looked out over a lovely valley with village lights in the distance. We heard only the occasional barking dog. While star-gazing an enormous “shooting star” lit up the sky in a way you never experience in a city.

Clearly I’ve been much too busy to write.

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The lovely Helen poses with a Tuscan wild boar. This shop and its delightful owner were the source of our hand cut bistecca alla fiorentina.