Off-season pleasures

12 Nov
Off-season travel usually means planning a trip around indoor activities, i.e., museums and churches. November in Roma has been glorious, so much so that I almost feel guilty knowing what the weather has been like in Portland. Tuscany was equally mellow and we were pleasantly surprised to find Lucca wreathed in fall color whereas Roma is drab. In Roma, the leaves simply fade to yellow and give up, falling into the path of AMA street sweepers.  Lucca’s trees give a bit of a show. Nothing like my native Minnesota, but quite pretty. (Click on any picture for a larger view.)
I’ve always said that it was not worthwhile to go to Pisa and waste a vacation day. Having visited — and being glad we did see The Tower — I would still advise those with limited travel time to spend their precious days elsewhere, but it was fun to see the iconic leaner. We were a 20-minute train ride from Pisa and the weather was perfect, so why not?
We also made a trek to the beach at Viareggio. I  expected more, expected to be wowed, alas the beach has not much to recommend it. However, the beautiful weather had us in shirtsleeves seaside before Noon. It’s not our beloved Cannon Beach, but it’ll do in November.
Lucca surprised us in many ways. After the costumed crowds cleared out, we found a walkable, shoppable little town, with affordable restaurants, inviting stores, and well-preserved buildings. Our B&B was from the 14th century, handily updated for modern living. This is a delightful place for a two-or-three night stay.

 

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Costumes, Comics and Games in Lucca

5 Nov
The train to Lucca from Firenze seemed crowded, but then it was a holiday, Ognisanti or All Saints’ Day. Still, the costumed young people (and occasional adult with a modest devil’s horns headband), seemed a bit odd the day after Halloween, especially since Halloween is not a big deal here.
Walking toward the famous wall that surrounds Lucca, the crowds were clearly large. Perhaps due to the spring-like day we had on November 1, people were lounging in the wide grassy lawns and parading on top of the wall in throngs. I found myself worrying that Lucca was just a little too popular and we would not enjoy a stroll around the mighty wall as intended. 
The gang from the Big Bang Theory would be at home here.
The gang from the Big Bang Theory would be at home here.
We struggled up the stairs inside the wall with the hoards of arrivals who were now clutching panini of porchetta or mortadella eating on-the-go. It was a conga-line of people, from bambini to nonni. What the heck was going on?
What was going on was Day 4 (and final day, grazie a Dio!) of Comics and Games 2015. This is the Tuscan equivalent to Comic Con. As we wound our way through the narrow lanes searching for our B&B (XIII Century building!) we encountered more characters, some elaborately dressed, some less-so, but an ever-growing crowd of people searching for their favorite animators, authors, artists, game designers, movies, merchandise, and whatever they could get their hands on to eat or drink. 
Characters were happy to stop an pose for pictures.
Characters were happy to stop and pose for pictures.
After checking in, we could not resist the impulse to venture into the streets and see this event. We were swept into the crowd, surging through the streets. It reminded me why I don’t go to crowded places unless I have a reserved seat. 
This was like a passaggiata that went out-of-control.
This was like a passaggiata that went out-of-control.
We did bear up for about an hour-and-a-half, but the crowd was so dense that when we did see a place for coffee or lunch (15:30 and we still had not eaten) it was mobbed with super heroes, bananas, princesses, or invaders. It was fun to see the costumes, and the crowd, being overall nerdy and geeky, was very polite but it gets tiring to swim in a school, especially upstream. 
Luckily by 19:00 the event was over except for the cleanup, which would go on for days. We departed Wednesday and there were still event tents all over the city. We might have missed some of the charm of Lucca, but had anyone told us Comics & Games was on, we’d likely have changed our trip. Sometimes ignorance is bliss and you stumble into something interesting. 
A few more pictures for your enjoyment. Click on any picture for a slide show. 
Yes, there were some children, though far outnumbered by costumed adults.
Star Wars featured prominently due to the new movie. The Bistrot served the usual Italian panini.
Everyone in costume loved to pose.
Even super heroes get lost.
Every major street was clogged with foot traffic. Luckily, Lucca is almost car free.
This store changed it’s name to “Haven for Nerds.”
Cartoon chair, Euro 1200.00.
EMTs took to the streets on foot. No room for an ambulance here.
Enormous crowd. We did not even dare go up on the wall.
Bananas!
Robot handbag, anyone? Leather shop in Lucca.
Poor puppy was forced to drag a (soccer) ball-and-chain.
Even stores got in the spirit, here “Minions” in a woodworker’s shop.
Harry Potter characters were prominent.

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The Pope doesn’t sleep here

27 Oct
At least the current pope, Papa Francesco, does not sleep in the Apostolic Palace of Castel Gandolfo. He has abnegated the luxury of a vacation residence and opened the doors to the public; At least to anyone willing to pay €10.00 for entrance.
The Apostolic Palace dominates the square in Castel Gandolfo.
The Apostolic Palace dominates the square in Castel Gandolfo.
In September we visited the Gardens of the Pontifical Villa, thinking we were in Castel Gandolfo. In actuality, the gardens are part of Villa Barberini in Albano Laziale and when we exited the garden tour we were a long walk from the little town of Castel Gandolfo. So we vowed to return while the weather was good.
Pope's view of Lago Albano.
Pope’s view of Lago Albano.
Early in the morning the flow of commuters from small towns storm Stazione Termini like an invading horde. The incoming trains are packed with briefcase-toting-suit-wearers and women tottering on impossibly high heels, and it seems everyone is puffing on a post-commute cigarette. We were blessed with an out-of-Roma trip, against the onrush of workers, accompanied by a very few Romans who actually get to leave the city for work.
A quick 40-minute ride through the countryside, passing Ciampino Airport and a handful of small towns, brought us to Castel Gandolfo. Then a 15-minute slog walk up the hill landed us in the town square where any number of little bars awaited our arrival. We found seats and a cappuccino in the 15-degree Celsius sunshine with a full view of the Apostolic Palace, aka, Papal Palace, aka Pontifical Villa or most commonly in Italian Palazzo Apostolico. Take your pick.
A Bernini angel...at least the audio guide claims it is his work.
A Bernini angel…at least the audio guide claims it is his work.
Writing set of Pope Pius VIII. Sorry about the glare. It is under glass for its protection.
Writing set of Pope Pius VIII. Sorry about the glare. It is under glass for its protection.
As instructed, 20 minutes before our tour time of 10:00, we approached the guard who welcomed us warmly and sent us up a flight of stairs to enter the museum. We were equipped with audio tour devices and sent on our way to self-guide, well before the clock chimed 10:00. We were the only people in the entire museum!
Now before you get to thinking that we ran giddily through the papal vacation home, jumping on the beds and checking inside the refrigerator, the public is not allowed in any area that would be considered an apartment. The museum consists largely of select papal portraits along with some special accoutrements, and the accompanying audio guide tells some of the fascinating history behind these powerful men.
The portrait of Papa Francesco is in a very different style from his predecessors.
The portrait of Papa Francesco is in a very different style from his predecessors.
We enjoyed the tour very much, even if we did not get to see the Papal bathroom. There’s one of those at Castel Sant’Angelo anyway.
Papal throne and entourage.
Papal throne and entourage.
In 6 1/2 hours we went from our home to Castel Gandolfo by bus and train, had coffee (always on the agenda), took the tour, and were back home in time for lunch. If one wanted to have lunch in CG — and why not with that view of the lake! — I would actually recommend the 11:00 tour followed by a leisurely lunch. Trains back to Roma are frequent. Would I spend an entire vacation day doing this on my first trip to Roma? Absolutely no. But when you have been here as long as we have, or visit annually like some of our friends, it’s fun to find new places to explore.
There are many restaurants that take advantage of the fine lake view.
There are many restaurants that take advantage of the fine lake view.
Info on tickets for the sites in Castel Gandolfo and Albano Laziale can be found here.

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We have time…

13 Oct
…so we went to Paestum. 
The good things:
Temple of Ceres.
Temple of Ceres.
  • Very old Greek temples, still standing. One is from 550 B.C! Amazing!
  • Inexpensive lodging at a rather delightful little place. Euro 73.00 per night including an Italian-style breakfast.
  • An excellent — who’d have guessed it?– restaurant right next door to our hotel. Truly a fine meal, nice people, very raffinato (refined, elegant). In fact, we will return this evening. And they give a discount for people staying at our hotel. 
  • There is a nice museum with well-preserved artifacts.
  • It was not crowded and the weather was darn-near perfect.
The drawbacks:
  • It takes a long time to get here. From Roma, door-to-door took us 7 hours including 2 buses, 1 Metro, a Frecciarossa, a  Regionale and a 20-minute walk. There was a fair amount of waiting time, partly due to guasto (malfunction) on the rail line. We also got to had to stand up all the way on the Regionale. 
  • There’s the archeological site, the museum, and that’s about it in Paestum.
  • There’s the mare, but the seaside here made the town of Seaside, Oregon (not my favorite place) look like a high-class resort.
  • We stayed one night too long, it seems.
A few hearty souls at the beach. In summer no doubt it is crowded.
A few hearty souls at the beach. In summer no doubt it is crowded.
Sad little seaside Paestum. I am sure it is lively in the summer, but I suspect it still feels sad.
Sad little seaside Paestum. I am sure it is lively in the summer, but I suspect it still feels sad.
We seldom go anywhere for one night. In fact, the only place I can think of that we did that was in Tivoli for the summer lights one August. And Tivoli is a hell-of-a-lot easier to get to than Paestum.
We have also seen the impressive Greek temple and ruins in Segesta. Perhaps if one has not seen those, this would knock your socks off. My socks are still on. We did get to be the first people in the archeological site, which was pretty fun. The tour groups showed up about 10:00 as we were exiting looking for an espresso. 
A tour group passes through the archeological site.
A tour group passes through the archeological site.
Maybe I am also jaded by the dead kitten I saw along one road and the dead rat along another. I have not had the misfortune to see roadkill in all of our travels. This in contrast to meticulous care to remove trash in the ruins.
Temples are lighted at night.
Temples are lighted at night.
If one were to want to see Paestum (and I understand why it would still be a draw despite my commentary), I would recommend a day trip from the Amalfi Coast or a one-night stay. The nice thing about staying a night is getting to see the temples lighted, and also seeing the site in both morning and afternoon light. We are not people who read every display in a museum or poke into every corner of a site. (Three hours at Pompeii was plenty for us.) If one does like to explore a bit more, perhaps Paestum would warrant more attention. We are happy we came, but a little bored as I write this. I am very happy we did not divert a vacation day-or-two when we were working. But we have time now.  
Surveying work in progress. Only about 30% of the site has been excavated.
Surveying work in progress. Only about 30% of the site has been excavated.
Temple of Nettuno.
Temple of Nettuno.
Of course there were ferals around.
Of course, there were ferals around.
A bright spot in the Roman ruins. Only the temples are Greek. The surrounding ruins date "only" to Roman times.
A bright spot in the Roman ruins. Only the temples are Greek. The surrounding ruins date “only” to Roman times.
Ric at Temple of Ceres.
Ric at Temple of Ceres.
Old Roman road to the sea, which was once much closer.
Old Roman road to the sea, which was once much closer. It’s now about a 20-minute walk via modern road.

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Swiss wrap-up

9 Oct
The trip to the Questura interrupted my tales of hiking in Switzerland.
We had unbelievable weather, sunny though chilly in the morning, no rain until the night before we departed for home. We never had to deploy an umbrella or pull up our hoods.
Having a full week in Lauterbrunnen afforded us an opportunity to explore the region a bit more than we have in two prior trips. Relative to the other meaning of “afford,” we were able to keep the budget somewhat in check by renting an apartment and cooking breakfast and most dinners. With this plan to travel extensively in retirement, we have committed to cooking more when we travel. After all, we have time. Plus, the food in Lauterbrunnen is rather uninspiring. It’s a cheese world after all: Rösti, Raclette, and Fondue are everywhere you turn. Vegetable options are slim, mostly potatoes and small green salads or coleslaw.
The trains and lifts get pretty expensive, but a Swiss half-fare card coupled with a Berner-Oberland Regional Pass meant we were able to save considerably on transportation during our 11 nights in Switzerland.
This is an extraordinary place to visit and hike. We really love the Dolomites, but Switzerland is pretty special too. It is incredibly clean and well-organized although the food and coffee are better in the Dolomites.
Which way? I love this picture Ric took of two hikers standing beneath a way-finding sign looking at their map.
Which way? I love this picture Ric took of two hikers standing beneath a way-finding sign looking at their map.
Hiking from First to Grosse Scheidegg, that's the EIger in the background. Everytime we go here we feel like we need to watch the Eiger Sanction again.
Hiking from First to Grosse Scheidegg, that’s the Eiger in the background. Every time we go here we feel like we need to watch “The Eiger Sanction” again.
We love this hike from Grutschalp to Muerren along the narrow gauge rail line.
We love this hike from Grutschalp to Muerren along the narrow gauge rail line.
Another favorite hike is from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg. This is a view toward Grindelwald in the valley.
Another favorite hike is from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg. This is a view toward Grindelwald in the valley.
My surveillance photo of Ric getting ready for a hike. At a train station, of course.
My surveillance photo of Ric getting ready for a hike. At a train station, of course.
Lunch in Muerren, overlooking the Laurterbrunnen Valley.
Lunch in Muerren, overlooking the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Bern city center as seen from the site of our lunch.
We did one city day, in Bern. Here, the city center as seen from the site of our lunch above the bear enclosure.
Subterranean shop in Bern. There are many such shops.
Subterranean shop in Bern. There are many such shops, former storehouses and cellars.
Terra cotta bunnies, Bern, Switzerland.
Terra cotta bunny and mouse, Bern, Switzerland.
This is the guy we saw with the gun on the train two days before. He works for the railroad.
This is the guy we saw with the gun on the train two days before. He works for the railroad.
Looking out our back door. The morning we departed, the cows were put to graze in the meadow behind our apartment.
Looking out our back door. The morning we departed, the cows were put to graze in the meadow behind our apartment.
View from Harde Klum to Lake Brienz. Lovely day, difficult hike.
View from Harder Klum to Lake Brienz. Lovely day, difficult hike.

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