Cooling off in the Alpe di Siusi

28 Jul
While Rome weather has been moderate this month (the warmest day so far in July was 30C/86F), it’s still nice to leave the humidity and the noise of the city for our annual trek to the Dolomites.
We seldom get photos of us together. Here we enjoy 14C/57F sun a Bullaccia - great hiking weather!
We seldom get photos of us together. Here we enjoy 14C/57F sun at Bullaccia – great hiking weather!
This is the first full week of annual leave we have taken all year. As you know, we have made several trips, but they have all been long weekends. The last time we took a full week off was September of last year when Derek visited. It’s about time we disconnected from work and Rome!
Nephew and niece John and Susan arrived Saturday from Seattle with William and Elizabeth. We have been planning for their visit — and Susan has been planning this European trek — for almost a year. We barely gave them time to get off the plane because Sunday we set off for one of our favorite spots in Italy, the Alpe di Siusi.
I’ve written extensively about travels here in the past (See Feeling German in Italy and Familiar Yet Foreign), so this time I will leave you with a few pictures from our first full day here. Think of them as little postcards sent to you. “Wish you were here!”
The Sciliar and Punta Santner in early morning light.
The Sciliar and Punta Santner in early morning light.
Elizabeth and William enjoy the hotel playground with a fabulous backdrop.
Elizabeth and William enjoy the hotel playground with a fabulous backdrop.
View from the Panorama Chair Lift, Alpe di Siusi.
View from the Panorama Chair Lift, Alpe di Siusi.
J & S at Bullaccia
J & S at Bullaccia
Ric, William and John along the trail to the Panche dell streghe (Witches' benches).
Ric, William and John along the trail to the Panche delle streghe (Witches’ benches).
Susan and Elizabeth share a moment on the trail. The background is the far side of the Val Gardena as seen from Bullaccia.
Susan and Elizabeth share a moment on the trail. The background is the far side of the Val Gardena as seen from Bullaccia.
E & W take in the view from the Cabinovia, our gondola ride to the Alpe.
E & W take in the view from the Cabinovia, our gondola ride to the Alpe.
 

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Tranquil Toscana

13 Jul
In the past couple of days, two regular readers have told me I am not blogging enough, so I finally got my act together to offer up this trip report. Lest you think life is just one big vacation for us, we do still have to cook, shop, do laundry, clean the cat boxes, go to medical appointments, and I might add, work, as that is our reason for being here. Much of what we do daily is not exactly blog-worthy. You, dear readers, only get the good stuff.
Tuscany offers one spectacular view after another.
Tuscany offers one spectacular view after another.
I am not sure what I expected when we decided to spend the holiday weekend in Montalcino. Certainly I expected some traffic in the height of summer, maybe mosquitoes as well. We found neither. What we did find was tranquility, uncrowded restaurants, and winemakers anxious to tell us about their wines in private tastings. We prefer off-season travel; we just did not know this would actually be off-season.
We had planned to go to Abruzzo, but at an Embassy auction we acquired a three-night stay at an agriturismo. Therefore, destination decided: Le Ragnaie, less than 4 kilometers outside of Montalcino in the heart of Brunello di Montalcino country.  This is a delightful, peaceful spot, not far off the road but miles away in spirit. We slept 9 hours on Friday night and Saturday night thanks to the absence of 1) AMA trucks picking up trash, 2) seagulls screaming at 3:00AM, and 3) motorini. We feasted on a terrific breakfast spread every morning, a great start to a day in the country.
Le Ragnaie is also a producer of organic wines, with grapes hand-picked and sorted. Guests are welcome to sample and discuss the wines in an intimate setting, which we did with out host, Augustino, and a lovely couple visiting from Sweden. We saw very few North Americans, by the way, anywhere in the area.  I guess most are intent on seeing Venice, Florence and Rome, but really, two or three days out of the mainstream would do any traveler good.
Goat family eyes us warily as we hike along their country road.
Goat family eyes us warily as we hike along their country road.
Planning to eat those hearty Tuscan meals and to taste our share of Brunello, we started each day with a long walk, in the cool of the morning. As early risers we were rewarded with soft light and encountered only a few locals starting their days. From Le Ragnaie, just across the road is a country lane leading to Villa a Tolli, another agriturismo. We walked past fields of sheep, goats and a donkey, as well as vineyards. Then we turned around and hiked the 2.8 km back to breakfast.
Another morning we parked in Montalcino well before the town was awake, and walked through deserted streets in search of coffee. [The only problem with an agriturismo, B&B, or small hotel is the absence of coffee when we roll out at dawn.] The morning light shined softly on golden Tuscan walls and the empty streets belied the busyness of Monday-to-come. Luckily in Piazza del Popolo we found coffee and fresh pastry at 07:00 to sustain us until our agriturismo breakfast would be ready.
Color added by seasonal flowers really perks up the town, Pienza.
Color added by seasonal flowers really perks up the town, Pienza.
With two days in the area, we spent one taking the magnificent drive to Pienza and Montepulciano. Classic Tuscan scenes unfolded: villas at the end of drives lined by Italian cypress, fields of grain and hay bales, and vast tracts of vines. In Pienza the tempting scent of pecorino wafting out of the shops enticed us to pick up some of the famed cheese, one with pepe nero and the other wrapped in olive leaves. Stop by and we’ll share.
Montepulciano gave our legs a workout. We parked at the bottom of the town and worked our way up to Piazza Grande. Montepulciano makes a fine lunch stop and there are many tempting shops. Since we had the luxury of a car and did not have to worry about handling luggage, we indulged in some gift buying. Now I only have to find those things and remember to pack them when we go to the States in October.
My Italian friend Eleonora told me about a wine she liked from Montalcino, a Brunello from Ventolaio. We found Ventolaio was only a bit beyond our morning walk to Villa a Tolli, so I called late Saturday afternoon to see if we could visit. In my hesitant Italian I asked and was told certainly they were open, please come! Maria Assunta welcomed us with four of her excellent wines accompanied by cheeses, bread with her own fine olive oil, and a big heart. Maria and her son Baldassare told us about their wines, property, history, and family. The entire operation on 89 hectares is run by mom, dad, and two sons. We could not have asked for a better aperitivo! We returned with the boot full of 36 bottles of wine, six of olive oil, and one excellent grappa. The Barton household will be having several dinners planned around Maria Assunta’s fine wines in the months to come. She says the 2010 is going to be one of the very best years for Brunello, so we need to stop by in January for the release. Feel free to place your orders; my handling charge is small.
Wonderful detail on a pillar of the Abbey.
Wonderful detail on a pillar of the Abbey.
Since we were driving, I had to watch my wine consumption and not have to drive too far from restaurant to lodging. (No such problem for Ric who chooses to be the navigator.) Fortunately, there are many fine restaurants in Montalcino. We are fond of Taverna Grappolo Blu. For four years I held a taste memory of their polenta vegetariana and I was not disappointed in the replay. The wine list is a heavy binder; One almost needs to order a glass of wine and an antipasto to sustain one while reading. Another favorite is Ristorante San Giorgio. While many of the restaurants in the more touristy streets and piazzas were almost devoid of patrons, the convivial, family friendly atmosphere of San Giorgio attracted many locals. It boasts a menu ranging from Tuscan favorites to fine pizza and the prices were a terrific relief from what we face in Rome.
Abbey of Sant'Antimo, near Montalcino
Abbey of Sant’Antimo, near Montalcino
Sunday we ventured beyond Montalcino, to Locanda Sant’Antimo in Castelnuovo dell’Abate.  Sunday lunch – or any lunch – under the arbor in the garden is a special experience.  One can drive here in 10 minutes as we did this trip, or one can feast here after walking about two-and-a-half hours from Montalcino to the nearby abbey, as we did four years ago on our first trip to Italy. That hike was our first Italian hiking adventure and while it was fun, we decided once was enough. Still, I would recommend it to anyone who craves a little country experience that borders on orienteering. You can take a bus back to Montalcino from Castelnuovo dell’Abate avoiding a two-way hike.
Speaking of the abbey, Abbazia Sant’Antimo is not-to-be missed. Dating to 1118, it is still an active community of monks today. We popped in at 14:45 to hear the monks chant, which they do six times each day. Much to our surprise, the community is apparently only 4 or 5 monks strong!  I guess the monastic life just doesn’t attract men like it did a few hundred years ago.
Rome’s weather has been great this year: not nearly as hot (yet) as the past two summers. We have hardly used the A/C and the mosquitoes have not been a problem so we have been sleeping with windows open. The downside is the noise. As much as we love Rome, escaping to the country is truly restful, even if I have to drive to get there.
We took about 400 pictures, and I know I am trying to share too many, but if you are motivated to do so, click on any picture below for a slide show.

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Italy’s Spaghetti Westerns

22 Jun
My friend Jonnie Martin is a writer about the western culture in the U.S.  She was born a Texan; has written a book about horse ranching, writes for a local newspaper; and blogs about Texas in particular and the West in general, including posts on books, music and movies.  She had this to share about Italy’s famed Spaghetti Westerns — Laurel
There is something about being born in Texas that demands that we love all things western, including movies. The first Hollywood films tended to idealize the strong silent cowboy (think Gary Cooper; think early John Wayne).  Then in the mid-1960’s, along came the western all’italiana (which we tend to call Spaghetti Westerns).  It changed everything.
The Good The Bad The UglyThese films starred a sly, often sarcastic double-dealing Anti-Hero, and there was a great deal of violence.  This new form aimed at deconstructing the traditional western Hero mythology.  Despite this, the movies played to huge success in the States, at least partially due to the popularity of Clint Eastwood who starred in some of the best-known of these Italian oaters.
Many resources credit Italian director Sergio Leone for starting the craze (which led to over 600 European Westerns between ’60 and ’80 according to Wiki).  Everything was different about this movie – the camera artistry, the music, the play on old classical themes, the titanic struggles between Good and Evil and something that fell in between. 
Casts were multi-national.  The Dollars Trilogy starred Clint Eastwood, who had begun his career on TV and from this series became an American movie icon.  A Fistfull of Dollars, For a Few Dollars More, and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly changed the face of western movies forever.
per_un_pugno_di_dollari_clint_eastwood_sergio_leone_013_jpg_ghakFor which I for one am eternally grateful.  It was after the peak of Spaghetti Westerns that today’s classics began to appear on the screen – beautiful works of art like Unforgiven, Lone Star, Brokeback Mountain, No Country for Old Men, The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford.  Thanks to the vision of Sergio Leone, we continue to get great works of art depicting the heart of the western experience.
It is still a mystery to me as to why our western heritage remains so persistent in the U.S. psyche.  The gunfighters are long gone; cowboys and ranches have been disappearing, the land shrinking for a hundred years, and yet there is some promise of hope here that we will not relinquish.
Although a Texan, I was raised a city girl, and yet I recognize this love of the land and the people who dearly hang on to their way of life.  I wrote my first novel WRANGLE about quarter horse racing in South Texas in the 1970s, inspired by my uncle’s Rio Ranch.  I write about ranchers and farmers and rodeo athletes in a local newspaper.  I blog each week on my website,  Jonnie Westerly Notes, about our cowboy culture throughout the States.
I adore these earthy western people; their history; their determination to have a future.  I think modern films are a paean to their way of live, more honestly portrayed and lovingly presented in the artistry and classical structure of modern films that had their genesis across the ocean in Italy.

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Lago di Como

15 Jun
It has been a long time since we heard the lapping of waves on a lakeshore. I grew up in the “Land O’Lakes” (Minnesota), but in the past 25 years, we have mostly spent time by the sea, whether the Oregon Coast or many locations along Italy’s magnificent shore. When we ventured to Lago di Como a couple of weeks ago and were struck by how different a lake sounds. The last time we were by a lake was 2008 and the body of water was Lake Superior. Lago di Como was an entirely different experience.
Evening in Varenna

Evening in Varenna

Varenna, on the shores of Lago di Como, has been on my list for 4 years, but as we often say, “So many places, so little time.” We took advantage of an Italian holiday weekend, La Festa della Republica. So what does one do at Lago di Como? Hike…eat…ride ferries…eat…visit beautiful villas…eat. Repeat.
Funny aside: In my hometown of Saint Paul, MN, we have Como Lake and Como Park. The lake was named by Charles Perry, a farmer who was a native of the Swiss-Italian Alps. (Switzerland is only a stone’s throw from the Italian lake.) It is funny for a lake in Scandinavian-settled Minnesota to be named for an Italian lake, but there you have it.
We devoted one day to a hike. The Sentiero del Viandante, or Wayfarer’s Path runs for 45 km along the eastern shore of the lake. There’s a manageable bit from Varenna to Bellano that Rick Steves mentions in his guide, saying it would take about 1 ½ hours, and advising us to ask the travel agency about it. I found an online brochure about the hike that made it seem straightforward, but to be sure we stopped at the travel agency, which serves as the Tourist Information office. Their words would ring in our ears and spew from our lips with laughter many times that day: Non si pùo sbagliare!  “You can’t miss it! Go up to the castle, and then follow the signs.”  Actually they were rather dismissive as if my inquiry were an interruption to their business. [Here’s a hint: Don’t advertise yourselves as a Tourist Info Center if you don’t like tourists asking questions.]
It was quite a climb to the castle, which unfortunately was not yet open for the day, so we moved on, happy to find some level ground. The day was cool and the views spectacular. I will let the pictures tell of the beauty.
Above Varenna there is a castle in Castello di Vezio. It was closed when we arrived at 9:30AM. Ric provided a spot of color in the otherwise gray stone town.

Above Varenna there is a castle in Castello di Vezio. It was closed when we arrived at 9:30AM. Ric provided a spot of color in the otherwise gray stone town.

I could live here....

I could live here….

The trail changed surface many times: occasionally on a road, but mostly gravel, dirt, rocks, flagstone-like.

The trail changed surface many times: occasionally on a road, but mostly gravel, dirt, rocks, flagstone-like.

View to Varenna from the trail.

View to Varenna from the trail.

This tiny falls reminded us of PunchBowl Falls in Oregon.

This tiny falls reminded us of PunchBowl Falls in Oregon.

The way-finding was not quite so straightforward. There were many signs but they did not always include our actual destination, and there were several branches of the Sentiero del Viandante, so we constantly had to check and recheck the limited-info brochure from the internet. Twice we were helped by locals that only spoke Italian. Once, emerging from a forest onto a road, we turned in absolutely the wrong direction. Luckily a man nearby responded to my query and was able to turn us around before we backtracked too far. Non si pùo sbagliare! In another instance, in the middle of a tiny town, the sign disappeared. We tromped around for a while looking for the right street name to rejoin the proper path. Non si pùo sbagliare! Finally, in descent into Bellano, which we could see for a very long time, we had to walk around the town from above to find a place to descend and then, of course, the Viandante signs disappeared (Non si pùo sbagliare!) and we had to do some basic orientation to find the train station, for our ride back to Varenna. 
Lots of signs, not always helpful.

Lots of signs, not always helpful.

As to Rick Steves’ time estimate, allora, he must have been 30 years old, accompanied by a guide, and did not stop to take any photos if he made Varenna to Bellano in 1.5 hours! We are not the fastest hikers in our age group, but it took us more than double the time, and our stops were limited. We did not even get coffee along the way!  Che piccato! Still it was a lovely hike with drop dead views around each turn, wild flowers blooming, cherries ripening on the trees, the way dotted with tiny towns and shrines, and there were no other hikers. The only other person we saw “hiking” was an elderly man with a walking stick above Bellano, who kindly confirmed we were alla strada giusta (on the right path). Our 3-hour-15-minute out-bound hike ended with a 4 minute train ride back to Varenna. Imagine a time a couple of hundred years ago when there was no train and if you could not afford to pay someone to take you by boat, you walked or rode a mule.  That’s why these paths exist today: former transportation links, not simply constructed for recreational hiking.
The next day found us riding ferries and visiting a famous villa, Villa Balbianello. This is where the wedding scene at the end of “Star Wars Episode 2” was filmed. Che bella! It is absolutely dreamy! No longer privately owned, it was built by a Cardinal (of course!) in 1787, but last owned by Signor Guido Monzino, the wealthy son of a department store magnet, who spent his life adventuring: Mount Everest, the North Pole, and so on. Today it houses his personal collections and is preserved for posterity and the enjoyment of visitors. Well worth the trip.
Villa Balbianello loggia overlooking the lake.

Villa Balbianello loggia overlooking the lake.

View from inside the loggia. I believe this was featured in Episode II.

View from inside the loggia. I believe this was featured in Episode II.

The grounds are simply magnificent. Popular wedding location.

The grounds are simply magnificent. Popular wedding location.

Swan family near Lenno, Lago di Como

Swan family near Lenno, Lago di Como

Many paths meander through the villa. Guided tours take you through the 5 levels of the palazzo.

Many paths meander through the villa. Guided tours take you through the 5 levels of the palazzo.

Just another gorgeous view. The cardinal had an eye for a good location.

Just another gorgeous view. The cardinal had an eye for a good location.

Laurel at Villa Balbianello

Laurel at Villa Balbianello

 

Bellagio, on the other hand, we found repulsive: hoards of tourists flocking the designer shops. It was ferry-central with boats arriving constantly from all over the lake. Such a hubbub! We arrived by hydrofoil and jumped on the first available boat back to peaceful Varenna.
The gustatory aspect of visiting a lake is eating freshwater fish. I adore salmon, tuna, swordfish and the like, but nice, white, lakefish takes me back to land-locked Minnesota, where we didn’t have such exotic seafood when I was young. I enjoyed the local fish  prepared several different ways. Our favorite meal involved being picked up at the lakeshore and being whisked high above Lago di Como to the small community of Gittana, where Chef Moreno, and his wife Rosella run Il Caminetto. Their €25.00 menù degustazione was unbelievable!
Hotel Olivedo, right on the lake. Fabulous!

Hotel Olivedo, right on the lake. Fabulous!

Outdoor dining very much in full swing with abundant spring sunshine.

Outdoor dining very much in full swing with abundant spring sunshine.

One of several types of ferries plying the waters of the lake. This one for vehicles and people.

One of several types of ferries plying the waters of the lake. This one for vehicles and people.

This is a great destination for a long weekend. Not a lot of “must sees’ but enough to do to fill 2 ½ days, and plenty of opportunity for relaxing. Rick Steves recommends the area for getting over jet lag upon arrival from the U.S. We would recommend it as a haven from the noisy city, a refreshing break before the tourist season is in full swing. 
This little guy seemed to be imitating one of the statues at Villa Balbianello.

This little guy seemed to be imitating one of the statues at Villa Balbianello.

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Out in the country

2 Jun
Rome is a wonderful city but it is, after all, a noisy, busy, annoying place. Motorini buzz up our street at all hours, buses discharging their air brakes echo in the night, and even the church across the street hums with activity as late as 11:00 PM. Seagulls sometimes screech as early as 3:30 AM, and compete with a songbird whose otherwise beautiful song is not quite so lovely at that dark hour.  So we seek to leave the city, walk without worry of careening motorini, and give our ears a rest.  Even a single day out of Rome can leave one refreshed. So it was with delight that we accepted the invitation of friends to join them at their home in a tiny town almost too small for the map.
Whenever I need to leave it all behind
Or feel the need to get away
I find a quiet place, far from the human race
Out in the country
 “Out in the Country” by Three Dog Night
As we leave Vico, heading up a rural road.

As we leave Vico, heading up a rural road.

The official town site says Vico Nel Lazio has a population of 2258. That might be true on a day that everyone who owns a home there shows up and brings the extended family. Our friend Gigi, whose family has had a house in Vico for 5 generations, says there are maybe 1000 people year-round. There are two bars, a tabaccheria, and a bakery. Everything else is down the hill a few kilometers away, except for the 8-or-so churches. Vico sits at over 700 meters above sea level. This medieval village dates back to at least the 13th century. The ancient gates are still in use and many of the original 24 towers still visible. It is not a tourist destination.
Tiny Vico Nel Lazio as seen on our ascent.

Tiny Vico Nel Lazio as seen on our ascent.

Driving about an hour and 45 minutes from Rome, we arrived late one Sunday morning to be greeted by Emanuela in the town piazza. Shortly, our group of 7 set out on a two-hour mountain hike, high above Vico. Gigi has been hiking these hills all of his life and took us meandering through grazing cows and horses with foals alongside. We could never have done this on our own. We’d be wandering there still today without his expert guiding. Along the way we shared stories with the accompanying Italian friends, picking up new vocabulary words as they willingly helped us with their language. As storm clouds threatened across the valley, we found a trough high in the hills. It must have been there for a very long time, fed by a spring. Luckily the rain arrived only as due gocce (a few drops).
Heading back to Vico we enjoyed il pranzo della Domenica (Sunday lunch) in the picture-perfect setting of Gigi and Emanuela’s garden. Following antipasti of salumi and cheese, there was homemade fettucine by the talented Maria, roasted suckling lamb and potatoes, salad, fruit, pastries and wine. It’s no wonder some of the group took to napping in the grass. Click on any photo below for a slide show.
Driving back to Rome the reality of urban life struck all too quickly as we encountered intense traffic and logistical problems in navigating our way home. But we had a lovely day in the country free from noise and traffic. Lovely. 

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