What do I miss and Independence Day, Italian-style

4 Jul

A friend recently asked “Is there anything you really miss here?” (“Here” being the U.S., Portland, or my former office depending on context.) He got me to pondering…. After almost 7 weeks in Rome what do I “miss?” The adventure is still new: so much to explore, to learn, to see. But I do miss

  1. People, of course. I used to see my son every day, now niente, although we did “Skype” recently. Dinners with Voyageur Femmes. The great people at my place-of-work in Portland: devoted, smart, fun, challenging (in a good way). V & B, our best pals, dining out together, exploring Portland, big holidays. “Dates” with Jonnie seeing oddball plays and artsy movies. While our family is spread about the country, certainly picking up the phone to chat is not as likely to happen, if only because the 6 to 9 hour time difference makes it tougher.
  2. Cool Portland June. Sometimes called “June-uary,” this Roman heat makes me long for the days I had to use the fireplace in June in Portland. (July is promising more of the same.)
  3. Familiarity. We get lost in Rome. I never got lost in Portland (at least not after the first year or two). Sometimes we head out and never get to our intended destination. All part of the adventure, but tiring when it is 90 degrees.
  4. A large cup of American coffee once-in-awhile so I can sit with my husband for half-an-hour and chit-chat to start the day. But we’ve replaced that with aperitivi. Not a bad substitute.
  5. My furniture. Should come any day now….
  6. The Oregon Zoo, a big part of our lives or so many years. We will miss ZooLaLa this month for the first time in 10 years!

That’s about it. I love my job, love the people I work with, and the location is amazing. Food to die for, markets to dream about, and don’t get me started on the pork salumi! Good thing we walk several miles a day. I do not miss Starbucks as much as some would conjecture. The coffee here is damn fine, and we have our amazing Nespresso machine at home.

As to Independence Day, we were fêted at the Ambassador’s last night, along with 3000 or so others, including Premier Mario Monti.

The crowd gathers in the garden at Villa Taverna

It was definitely a unique 4th-of-July party in an Italy-meets-America sort of way.

La Porchetta, artfully done and oh-so-delizioso!

The menu ranged from hotdogs and hamburgers to porchetta and parmigiano reggiano.I especially enjoyed the Virginia baked ham, which many Italians eyed with suspicion as if thinking “why would you do that to a prosciutto?” There was watermelon, ice cream, and corn-on-the-cob, but also pizza, pasta, and the most impressive cheese table I have ever eaten my way through laid eyes on. Italian wine flowed along with Miller beer. (If you can lay your hands on a bottle of Brachetto d’Acqui, do it. A fine summer red for aperitivi!)  The National Anthem was sung by one of our Marines, and the musical entertainment was 100% American jazz/swing/pop. The party is a hot ticket for Italians: Efforts to secure an invitation endured until the last moment. Italian guests out-numbered Americans by a huge majority. In fact, Ambassador Thorne gave his speech entirely in Italian. Lest you think the U.S. Government spent taxpayer dollars on this largesse, be assured corporate America and L’Italia delle imprese (Italian business) made the evening possible through sponsorships. Crowning the evening, an impressive fireworks display. Happy #236 America!

Fireworks above the carefully trimmed trees of Villa Taverna.  Bravissimo!

Quite a show in the middle of Rome.

Rome at night

30 Jun

It has been brutally hot in Rome for 15 days; there is no end in sight (well maybe it will be in only the upper 80’s by Tuesday). AccuWeather.com varies the forecast with catchy phrases like “plenty of sunshine” and “blazing sunshine.” The low here tonight is higher than Portland’s forecast high for the day.

Il Colosseo at night, glows as if lit by torches.

But night time is magical and soft. Last Saturday (we are repeating the pattern today) we did our morning shopping, then holed up in air conditioned comfort from Noon until 7:30PM, when we hit the streets. For those who know us, this is aberrant behavior. We were usually on our way home from dinner by 7:30PM in Portland.

Rome comes alive about 8:00PM. We headed to a riverside “event” called Lungo il Tevere. This is a street market that runs along the Tiber (Tevere) River for about a mile. It’s a seasonal, semi-permanent installation that occurs every single night until September 2. Some nights the focus is on jazz, on others comedy or the creative arts. So one can return over and over and find something a little different in terms of entertainment.

The Tiber is >30 feet below the city, thanks to flood-control walls built in the 1870s. The broad riverside walkway is perfect for the tents, booths and cafes that line it for the summer season.

Lungo il Tevere (along the Tiber) summer market, cafe, entertainment venue.

Lamplight makes the river walk more romantic.

Young and old, singles and families, strolled from booth to booth, café to café, enjoying the night and freedom from being cooped up in apartments. We declined to eat at Lungo il Tevere this time, preferring the Largo di Torre Argentina area and a little place we found last December. But on our way out, we paused on the bridge to savor a lovely sunset and the dome of St. Peter’s.

Sunset and the Basilica San Pietro

A summer night out in Rome would not be complete without a stop at the neighborhood gelateria. This is the scene a couple of blocks from our apartment at 23:15. And it is like this every night of the week (at least in summer). There seem to be two peak times: around 18:00 for pre-dinner aperitivo and about 23:00. Bar Gelateria Duse has a melon gelato that is to die for! So intense is the fruit that it is practically healthy.

This is our go-to place for gelato. Open late!

Another night, we ventured out as dusk descended with guests to see the monuments along Via dei Fori Imperiali, which leads from the Coliseum past the Roman Forum. There we so few people compared to daytime, you’d have thought you were in downtown Omaha except more scenic. (No offense to Nebraskans, but you know what it’s like.)

Monuments at night: serene, peaceful, lovely.

Even our neighborhood is bathed in gold at night!

Goodnight Moon! Parioli – view from our window.

Cocktails on Via Veneto

22 Jun

A lovely Italian tradition is to serve some sort of snack with your cocktail or wine. Whether at 11:00AM, 3:00PM, or 10:00PM, you’ll get at least a bowl of potato chips, often peanuts or a spicy/salty snack mix, and sometimes tiny sandwiches or pizza bites.

We enjoyed this “guest” that swept in to enjoy a few peanuts as soon as the couple abandoned table next to ours.

Tha waiter didn’t think this was nearly as funny as we did. The pigeon downed about 20 peanuts in less than 30 seconds.

Day trip to Ostia Antica

19 Jun

Ostia Antica, Photo by NIcholas DiStefano.

Friends Nick and Wally were here for 5 days after their 2+ weeks in Sicilia. Pompeii was initially high on their list, but they decided to try the Ostia Antica experience instead of the lllooonnngggg day trip to Pompeii from Roma. We were game to accompany them as Ostia is on our list.

Field trip: I was lucky to catch part of the teacher’s lecture. Luckier still to have understood most of it! Perhaps my Italian comprehension level approaches 3rd grade.

To avoid the afternoon heat we started out at 08:15 Sunday morning. Bus to Termini, metro to Porta San Paolo, and then a train to Ostia, put us at the gate to OA about 09:30. We almost had the place to ourselves! There was a German group of college-age kids, a couple of other groups that seems to be archeology students, and what appeared to be an Italian grade school group on a field trip.Ric and I loved Pompeii when we visited there last December, but this is such a different experience. Ostia is an easy self-guided tour, with Rick Steves’ narrative to keep us on track. It is a very peaceful site where one can wander at will. The wildflowers bloom throughout the site, softening the edges of the ruins. There are amazing intact mosaics depicting the merchants and baths of Ostia.

It seems like nature could easily take over the site and it would be lost to us forever.

Ostia has a long history, having been founded in 620 B.C. (!!!), but as the Roman Empire declined, Ostia became less important. There were invasions and pirate sackings, and eventually due to floods the Tiber River shifted and land-locked Ostia. What the volcano did to Pompeii, politics, flooding and time did to Ostia.Ostia gives wonderful insight to Roman town planning, life and construction. You can arrive from Roma on a simple metro/bus ticket for €1.50 each way. It’s a half-day trip, perfect for a summer morning. We were home for lunch by 13:30. Entry is €8.50 per person (although residents over 65 with a codice fiscale get in for free). I won’t drag the narrative on and on. Here are some additional pictures to tell the story.

In the “Piazzale delle Corporazioni” or Square of the Guilds. mosaics depict services and products in a universal language.

Arch overrun by greenery

Ostia’s Theatre: Still the site of entertainment, but leaning toward concerts in the current era.

 

Via Veneto Sunday

17 Jun

Today we visited the posh and beautiful Via Veneto for Sunday pastry: a chocolate croissant the likes of which I have never had. Creamy dark chocolate encased in flaky goodness. Served with fresh-squeezed orange juice and excellent espresso.

Today we did not breakfast alone. Friends Wally and Nick joined Ric and I for our weekly, leisurely indulgence.

Wally, Laurel, Ric and Nick enjoy La Prima Colazione.

Girovaga

Formerly GoodDayRome

Skip to content ↓