Tag Archives: AlpenHotel Panorama

The Joys of Half-Pension Plans

10 Oct

10 October 2026.

Sitting down to a dinner that the hotel has chosen for you is a delightful surprise. The night we arrived at AlpenHotel Panorama we had no idea what the menu would be since we arrived only a couple of hours before it was served. Our first evening this was the menu:

Gala Dinner

Aperitif

Homemade whole-grain bread

Amouse Bouche

Porcini mushroom “cappuccino”

Pumpkin Risotto with Amarettini and “Coppa”

Beef sirloin steak with Celery cream and Courgette

“Baumkuchen” roll with Amarena cheery ice cream

It was scrumptious. Every sip and every bite, although we substituted vanilla ice cream with warm raspberries for dessert. They started with an aperitif on the patio in the astronomical twilight: a glass of wine from the Alto Adige and small nibbles from the kitchen. It was dark enough that I could not tell exactly what I nibbled; it was all delicious. But then we’d not had lunch…

Moving indoors, the amuse bouche was served (and eaten before I thought to photograph it) and our personally selected wine was opened, followed shortly by a cappuccino: not the coffee beverage but a doppelganger made from porcini.

Cappuccino of porcini soup.

Each portion is small so eating each is not a hardship. A tiny portion of risotto is followed by a modest serving of perfectly cooked sirloin. And yes, celery cream is delicious.

Sirloin on a bed of celery cream with zucchini

And so we made it to dessert, polishing off our excellent of local Blauburgunder (aka Pinot Noir). We were satisfied, not stuffed. We slept well.

Each night is different. While we tend to go with the daily chef’s menu, there are options that appeal to different palates. There is an ala carte menu where Pasta al’Pomodoro (pasta with tomato sauce) is usually offered, which is a good choice for a fussy child or someone with a gimpy tummy. Or for the die hard fan of Tyrolean cuisine, there is usually Weiner Schnitzel. One night there was lasagna, and usually there is a dessert substitution as well as an alternate first course, occasionally an alternative main.

Other than the “Gala Dinner” the first night, they always start with a massive salad and appetizer buffet. This is usually our opportunity to get in a reasonable number of vegetables as they are few and far between when dining in a mountain hut at lunch!

Cream of pumpkin/coconut soup; Pork fillet with mustard sauce and rice; Cheeseburger and fries: the daily specials at Laurinhütte, Alpe di Siusi. Very “veggie lite.”

My antipasto plate with salad, marinated mushrooms, caprese and more.

One night the menu left on our table was in German. The hotel prints the menu daily in three languages. I speak Speisekarte (menu) Deutsch so it wasn’t a problem figuring out Rotkrautcreme (Red Cabbage Reduction) or  Kartoffelrösti  (Roasted Potatoes) but the translations into English can be tough to decipher. For example, another night there was a vegetarian menu with options for meatier courses. All three languages used the term “TIrtl” for one of the choices on the carnivore menu. It is a thin, round dough pocket filled with chestnut deep fried to crispy. Not exactly translatable.

Wednesday night was carvery night. Tyrolean specialties on the cold buffet were complimented by a selection of grilled pork, veal, lamb, and deer sausage served by a chef in the Zirmstube a kind of gathering room separate from the dining room. I’ve never had a better pork chop: a small roasted bone-in pork tenderloin cut to order into individual chops. Ric had deer sausage. Of course there were potatoes, sauerkraut, and more vegetables on the side. Our Italian table-neighbors are vegetarian and the chef accommodated them with a lovely looking polenta dish with gobs of cheese.

A chef serves grilled meat from a vast selection of cuts. No poultry. This is beef, pork and game territory.

The dessert buffet with three kinds of strudel plus assorted other tidbits and vats of vanilla cream sauce and raspberries. We did not skip dessert this night!

We have had half-pension at two hotels this trip and we were very happy with both. It relieves you of having to look for a place to eat. Good thing as there are few-to-NO-options outside your hotel in the evening when staying in the Alpe di Siusi. It is remote from the valley towns and the gondola serving the valley closes down at 17:00. An included dinner also lets you avoid the task of choosing from a restaurant menu that looks frighteningly like a dozen menus you’ve seen in the past few weeks.

Our final night there was choice between a vegetarian menu and a true carnivore one. I chose veggie and Ric went full meat-eater although we both started with salads. This is a great example of how the hotel made sure there were choice even though some elements are fixed. Here are the three menus we could pick-and-choose from at no extra charge.

Chef’s Menu

Salads and Cold Starters from the Buffet

Bouillon with Herb Fritters

Gnocchetti (mini gnocchi) with Cherry Tomatoes, Courgettes, and Pecorino

Strudel or Philo Pastry, Aubergine, Tomato Sauce & Pesto

Cheese from the Buffet

Buckwheat Cream with Caramelized Hazelnuts and Apple Ragout

Forest and Wildlife Menu

Venison Tartare with Pickled Vegetables and “Vinschgerle” (a type of bread)

Wild Essence (a consommé) with a “Tirtl”

Wild Boar Loin, Beans with Bacon, Sauerkraut Cannolo

The Alacarte menu this evening had a further five choices of entrees and two more desserts!

My gnocchi and strudel were to die for! Beautifully presented but tasted even better. Ric loved his venison tartare and the wild boar was a work of art. “Beans with Bacon” turned out to be green beans in a small bundle wrapped in speck the Tyrolean prosciutto. The “Cannolo” was highly inventive: a crepe wrapped around a puree of sauerkraut and potato.

Ric’s plate: “Beans with Bacon,” the “Sauerkraut Cannolo,” and tender wild boar.

I can hardly describe how good the Buckwheat Cream dessert was: a pudding made with buckwheat, formed into a perfect wreath decorated with caramelized hazelnuts, finely diced apple compote and other tiny pleasures. If I had seen it on a restaurant menu I would have dismissed it as weird. Now I want another one.

After five glorious nights of half-pension (BTW the breakfasts are quite lovely with a buffet of cold options and eggs cooked to order) we are ready for some simpler suppers. We transferred  to Ortisei and a self-catering apartment where I will make simple dinners and focus on fresh vegetables but leave room in the dining-out plan for excellent pizza and Italian specialties.

A few years ago I wrote about Road Food https://girovaga.com/2019/10/29/road-food/ and what I prepare in self-catering accommodations when we are on an extended stay. Not much has changed although a few simple sheet-pan dinners are among our favorites (thanks to New York Times Cooking).

I would kill for some American bacon about now, though.

Another Path to Lunch

16 Sep

16 September 2024.

Sundays are days for long walks and special lunches, at least while we are traveling. A few years ago, I wrote about a particular favorite, which we have now done three times (See https://girovaga.com/2021/10/03/a-path-to-lunch/) with plans to repeat as often as possible.

Yesterday we discovered another walk that led us to perhaps the finest mountain “hut” around, Rauchhütte on the Alpe di Siusi. I have read various raves about it: “Best hut! You have to go! Nowhere like it!” My cynical self said that all mountain huts are the same atmosphere, beverages, and mountain cuisine, in this case Südtirol specialties, beer, limited wine, grappa, and good coffee.  Rauchhütte is un altro mondo: a world apart.

Perhaps I should explain the concept of today’s mountain “huts.” In Italian we call one a rifugio or baita or malga, in German it is hütte. You would probably call one heavenly. We are talking real plates, glassware, and cutlery; Espresso machines and full kitchens; Clean bathrooms. They serve simple mountain food: hearty pastas, local specialities like canederli (a kind of dumpling), cheese and meat platters, polenta, game dishes featuring boar or venison, spareribs, lots of potatoes, beer, limited wines, some hard liquor. Always strudel, homemade cakes, coffee, and so on. Hearty fare. Occasionally a salad slips into the menu.

Approaching the baita Rauchhütte.

Imagine this terrace on a sunny, temperate day!

Rauchhütte defies the traditional baita. It is a gourmet experience, a wine-driven restaurant perched in one of the most beautiful mountain settings you will find. A fabulous deck, a warm and cozy dining room, stellar service, an impressive wine list, and elevated cuisine.

It was almost full when we arrived at noon. We were lucky to get the last unreserved table. Sunday lunch is a big deal and people target Rauchhütte for this special time.

Interior with views to the Sassolungo and Sasspiatto.

You cannot drive to Rauchhütte. You can cycle, hike, walk, or take a bus. We walked an hour to get there from AlpenHotel Panorama as well as an hour after lunch to — get this — ride a chair lift back to our home base! Who needs a bus?

Adding to the pleasure of the day, we are having a wintery September on the Alpe di Siusi. About 6 inches of snow fell Thursday into Friday, and Saturday was cursed with a bitterly cold wind. Sunday, the winds were still, and silence descended as it does with snow on the ground. Even most of the (few) people out were not talking much. Just enjoying the unusual scene. So did we. SIGH.

Lunch was divine. Fine wines by bottle or glass, a limited but excellent menu with many specials for the day featuring seasonal favorites like porcini or deer. Yes, the local specialities were present as well, but in an elevated manner, with the service you would expect in a fine-dining restaurant; except all the patrons were dressed for outdoor sports and had backpacks at their feet.

Ric’s lunch of canederli and goulash.

My choice: Housemade pappardelle with oxtail ragu.

Terrace wall decorated with (empty) wine bottles. They claim to have 300 labels in the wine cellar, mostly local.

A total of five miles and two hours of walking might have put a dent in the house made pappardelle with oxtail rags that I snarfed down. We will be back next year. I might even include one this in the next edition of Walking in Italy’s Val Gardena.

For those who are curious about the route and know the area or are visiting, we walked Trail #6 from Panorama downhill toward Ritsch, turning right on Trail #30 until it joins the main road at the Wiedner Egg bus stop. From there, follow the road to the “hut.” The easy-hiker way back is to walk the road back to the bus stop, then follow Trail #30, the Hans and Paula Steger Trail (also in our book) all the way to Compatsch, returning up to AlpenHotel Panorama via the chairlift.

Or take the bus if you had too much wine. That might happen next year because the wine list is simply awesome.

One of the views on our path to lunch, the magnificent Sassolungo and Sassopiatto.

Beyond the guidebook

27 Aug

27 August 2022.

Frankfurt is an easy city to dismiss. We have merely passed through on flights a couple of times, landing one afternoon and leaving the next morning. In 2016, we spent a full day and self-guided using a tour in the Rick Steves’ guidebook. This time, we decided to spend two nights and take a tour with the highly recommended Jo of Frankfurt On Foot Tours. 

There is far more to Frankfurt than the thru-traveler using it as a waypoint would know. Jo filled us in not only on the long and important history as a merchant city, but on current culture and the changing face of the city. After a fabulous 3-plus hours, we were exhausted but informed. We have learned over the years that a great private tour is an excellent way to get insight into a site or a city. Worth every Euro. 

Frankfurt: old and new. And hot.

The reason we pass through Frankfurt so often is that there are non-stop flights from the West Coast on Condor Air that make for relatively painless travel, if 10 hours can be painless. Changing planes on the East Coast is a trial we’d rather not endure ever again whether coming or going. Far better to make a single hop to FRA and then jump on a train to our next location after a good night’s sleep. Having a favorite Italian restaurant there doesn’t hurt.

As to sleep, I had a few bad nights prior to departure with so many pre-trip things on my mind: Will Sven and Molly have separation anxiety? Will I have separation anxiety? Will Sven and Molly forget who we are after 2 months? Will our bags arrive or be cast onto a pile of 5000 others as we have heard in reports? Derek’s surgery, new house sitter to get organized for, third heat wave hitting this weekend: Good Lord, no wonder I was stressed! Oh, and then COVID hanging on. I packed a pile of masks because, sensibly, the Germans and Italians are still requiring them on public transportation. That included our German airline. Everyone was masked-up except when eating. 

Speaking of Beyond the Guidebook, we are NOT updating the guidebooks this year. (THAT was a weak segue.) I wanted a trip where I was truly relaxing, not making notes and taking photos, and then spending the winter laboring over edits. I don’t envy the Rick Steves’ editors. It is a LOT of work checking and cross-checking details for a new edition. 

This year is a true vacation and I will post discoveries on the blog instead of updating the books. 

Click on any photo for a better view. The landscapes are stunning!

Clockwise from top left: Morning light on the Alpe di Siusi; The Denti di Terrarossa above the Alpe; Before sunrise in the Alpe di Siusi; One of our many companions on a morning hike; Me fashionably dressed for the German trains; Long view on the Alpe to our hotel with the Sciliar and Punto Santander; The many faces of the Alpe di Siusi include forested sections; Center, pet alpacas at the AlpenHotel Panorama.

Thursday was a long train day traveling from Frankfurt to Munich where we changed trains for the journey south to Bolzano.

Our trusty driver, Ivan, picked us up and ferried us to the Alpe di Siusi where we nestled in to the AlpenHotel Panorama, a favorite spot on our Favorite Places Tour, for three nights. This is another Beyond the Guidebook place. The other guests — mostly Italians — are surprised to find Americans here, especially on a repeat visit. It is not in any guidebook I have ever consulted but it is in our own Walking in Italy’s Val Gardena. One of the best features: rooms include not only breakfast but a 5 course dinner. No cooking, no thinking about it, elegant, tasty, and many choices. We are never disappointed.

Fun story. We first met “Taxi Ivan,” as his business is called, in 2016 when we vacationed in the Val Gardena with our two cats, traveling from Rome to beat the heat for the month of July. (See Training Cats from July 2016.) We used to take a bus to Ortisei from Bolzano, but imagine getting on a bus — even a nice one — with 4 suitcases and two cats! Taxi Ivan rescued us and we have been using his services ever since.

Hope you will stay tuned as we continue our Favorite Places Tour.