Tag Archives: Rome

Papa Francesco, the Marines and Me

6 Oct
“You are invited to an audience with the Pope,” said my friend Holly from Las Vegas. I knew there was an audience every Wednesday, and I knew there was some method to get tickets, but I never bothered to try and get them. Thanks to a quartet of visiting retired Marines, I was included in an invitation and tickets provided by the Bishop of Las Vegas. (Connections in our “business” are strange. Holly is a Protestant, like me, but her community activities on behalf of our employer bring her in touch with the Bishop and he offered
Night is just leaving the sky as I wait in the shadows, outside the colonnade.

Night is just leaving the sky as I wait in the shadows, outside the colonnade.

her this fabulous opportunity.)  So early one Wednesday morning in September, I made my way before dawn to Piazza San Pietro and stood in mob for 90 minutes, from 06:30 to 08:00, to gain entrance and get a good seat. Luckily we were blessed with a perfect autumn day and our early arrival meant seats right against the fence along the path Papa Francesco would take in his pope-mobile.
The first rays of sun hit St. Peter's Basilica shortly after we are admitted.

The first rays of sun hit St. Peter’s Basilica shortly after we are admitted.

Before dawn the Roman Metro is amazingly busy as working folks head to the places they maintain for our use during the working day. And never before have I taken the first bus out of our neighborhood at dark and lonely 05:30. Then the long walk to the piazza, around to the south side, past vendors of trinkets one can have blessed by his Holiness.  Rosaries, medallions, pictures, crosses, all available from probably-not-Catholic vendors from Pakistan.
There was a lot of waiting before the crowd began to murmur and there were glimpses of the great man riding through the square in his white open-top converted something-or-other. (Is it a Jeep?) The audience is supposed to being at 10:30, but this pope is known for starting early, at 10:00. Shortly before 10:00 he passed our forward position. I tell you the man radiates charm and goodwill!
Papa!

Papa!

The audience is conducted in seven languages: Italian, French, German, English, Polish, Spanish and Arabic. The Pope gives a homily in Italian, this is then paraphrased in each language. Special greetings are offered to pilgrimage groups in their languages, again repeated in each of the other languages. As each language is spoken the receptive native speakers cheer.  I was perplexed by the inclusion of Arabic. I have to say that after the Arabic portion, I did not hear any resounding cheers from an Arabic component. I have to wonder if he includes Arabic every week, or if it is included currently as a demonstration that there are Arabic-speaking Christians, too, a counter-point to the ISIS threat against the Catholic Church.
I was "this close" as he rode by. I've heard he gives his handlers heart failure as he is so difficult to guard. His openness is delightful.

I was “this close” as he rode by. I’ve heard he gives his handlers heart failure as he is so difficult to guard. His openness is delightful.

So about those Marines. These are four women who served our country a total of 120 years-or-so. I had the privilege of hanging out with them for a day and a dinner, giving a tour of the Embassy and also introducing them to our fine Marine Security Guard. They spent a couple of weeks touring Italy from North to South, wrapping up here in the Eternal City. They certainly made my week more interesting!  
With a gazillion people in the audience, Jumbotrons are essential.

With a gazillion people in the audience, Jumbotrons are essential.

The audience reaches back to the far end of the piazza. We are in the front 20% or so, thanks to the Bishop of Las Vegas.

The audience reaches back to the far end of the piazza. We are in the front 20% or so, thanks to the Bishop of Las Vegas.

 

Took the Marines to my favorite trattoria.The owner, Paolo, joined the fun and treated us to figs and prosciutto. It pays to be a regular...

Took the Marines to my favorite trattoria.The owner, Paolo, joined the fun and treated us to figs and prosciutto. It pays to be a regular…

Once a Marine, always a Marine, I am told. They are retired; never "ex" and never "former."

Once a Marine, always a Marine, I am told. They are retired; never “ex” and never “former.”

Holly, Victoria, Mary Ellen and Patricia, great new friends!

Holly, Victoria, Mary Ellen and Patricia, great new friends!

Holly and me by the Reclining Silenus, a Roman Imperial era statue on the embassy grounds.

Holly and me by the Reclining Silenus, a Roman Imperial era statue on the embassy grounds.

Weekend Miscellany

18 May
Friday night we undertook to make dinner for some Italian friends. I am still a bit nervous about making Italian food for Italians, so we built a “Mediterranean Menu,” incorporating preparations from Sicily and the Middle East, with a left turn to France for dessert. It turned into THE GREAT GARLIC DINNER: with the exception of dessert, there was garlic in every course. I had not planned the menu to be so. Only in the implementation did I realize how much the little wonders were incorporated. Luckily each person was a garlic fiend.
Gigi, Eleonora, me and Emanuela. Why do I always forget to take pictures of the food?

Gigi, Eleonora, me and Emanuela. Why do I always forget to take pictures of the food?

We started with pancetta-wrapped garlic, which must be tried to be believed. Our guests had never seen garlic nor pancetta treated this way. Even our vegetarian guest downed several of the savory cloves. Of course olives were present, also in a garlicky/spicy treatment. Antipasti included balsamic-roasted red-peppers, hummus, and Ric’s very wonderful Sicilian caponata, also with an adequate amount of the pungent bulbs. Served with hot, crispy-crusted-tender-inside focaccia we probably could have quit eating at this point. Ma è non finisce qui! (But wait, there’s more!) The garlic-fest continued with garlic-crusted rombo and rosemary potatoes with olives and –  you guessed it – garlic!
Rombo

Rombo

The rombo is a type of flat-fish, a member of the turbot family. I used to make this recipe with halibut in Portland. In fact it is a recipe our son taught me. Although Italian has a word for halibut, ippoglosso, you cannot get the fish fresh. So I asked at the pescheria what type of fish might work as a substitute and the rombo was the considered decision.  I was quite flattered at the fish shop to be asked how I would prepare scallops. There was another customer there contemplating scallops as they were on special and according to the fishmonger Italians only have one way of making them: baked with breadcrumbs, a sort of Coquilles St. Jacques. He knew an American (between my accent and my marginal Italian it’s easy to tell that I am) would have other preparations so we had quite a 3-way conversation about pan-frying, in cream-sauce with mushrooms, stir-fried in an Asian style, etc. This is constant conversation in Italy wherever food is sold: How are you going to prepare that? Everyone has an idea and the exchange is quite interesting and informative. I am glad my Italian is now at a level where I can participate. But I digress…. The fish is spread with roasted garlic, then sprinkled with herb-seasoned panko, and broiled for a very few minutes. Yum!
The potato recipe came from my friend Heather’s aunt, and is a real winner, perfect with this fish. New potatoes, two kinds of chopped olives, roasted garlic, herbs and olive oil = fantastic! No ketchup required.
We finished the evening with a very French pots di crème served with fresh whipped cream,the intense chocolate being a fine counter-point to the savory dinner.
At the very elegant Villa Taverna gardens. I was so wrapped up in the auction, wine and food, I forgot to take pictures. This was the cake-topper.

At the very elegant Villa Taverna gardens. I was so wrapped up in the auction, wine and food that I forgot to take pictures. This was the cake-topper.

Of course that was only Friday. The gastro-fest continued at the annual embassy auction at the ambassador’s residence, Villa Taverna.  Because U.S. government procurement law does not allow taxpayer money to be spent on employee functions, each year the Community Liaison Office holds an auction to raise funds to allow a couple of parties for staff, morale-boosting efforts for the Marine Security Guard, such as visits by their parents, and so on. The auction is a big deal, with great food and an opportunity to spend money. So of course we did. It looks like we have a couple of weekend trips ahead, including 3 nights at an agriturismo in the Brunello di Montalcino region.
Ric and me in our little risciò, perfect for touring the park. V.B. is the largest public park in Rome.

Ric and me in our little risciò, perfect for touring the park. V.B. is the largest public park in Rome.

Sunday we decided it was finally time to rent a risciò in Villa Borghese. A risciò is a pedal-cart for two-to-four adults and two little ones. It is power-assisted so you don’t kill yourself pedaling, but it does take some thigh power to get around. We have a mind to take our young great-nephew and great-niece for an outing when they are here in August, so we thought a trial run would be a good idea. What a fun way to see the park! We walk through V.B. almost daily, but there are parts of the park we never get to see. So Susan and John, when you two are off seeing the Vatican Museums, we may be cycling your kids through the park.
Anyone who knows Ric knows that pizza is a weekly menu item, usually on Friday night. Since we had company Friday and the auction Saturday, we had to push pizza to Sunday night, so very shortly we’ll be off our local pizzeria to feed the need. Great way to wrap up the weekend!
The lake in Villa Borghese. Very small, but quite sweet.

The lake in Villa Borghese. Very small, but quite sweet.

Hope you all had fun this weekend too!

On the 5th day we rested

19 Feb

Day five (Monday) I had hoped to return to St. Peter’s and climb the dome, but we awoke feeling a bit lazy after 4 days of tearing about. The last two days were long ones and travel intensive. Plus we’d missed the gym all weekend, so we took a different path.

As it was a beautiful spring-like morning we headed off at 7:15AM on a journey we usually take on Saturdays. We headed down through our quartiere of Parioli to our favorite Sicilian cafè for a  quick shot of espresso, where i ragazzi were surprised to see us on a Monday, necessitating an explanation of il giorno dei presidenti, including clarification that it was not just a day for Mr. Obama, but a day to honor all U.S. presidents. 

We continued on our way, across Villa Borghese, through Piazza del Popolo, then meandered through some of the myriad alleys we seldom travel, watching our city wake up and workers prepare for the week, down to Campo dei Fiori where again some of the vendors we patronize were surprised to see us on a Monday. More explanations.

On to the gym. The embassy was quiet except for the landscaping crew doing the annual trimming of the palm trees. It was nice to have the gym to ourselves! 

Now what became the highlight of the day, and a fitting end to the Valentine’s Day weekend: we bought Ric a new wedding ring. In 1989 he lost his while snorkeling in Hawaii. What with one thing or another, we never replaced it, but have been talking about doing so. Today was the day! We visited a little jeweler (complete with a protective man-trap entry) and made a selection. If he loses this one, the next one goes through his nose. :=)

Dinner of Ric’s homemade caponata, a Skype call with my brother and SIL, and some fine Sicilian vino bianco put a cap on the day. 

Did I say lazy? We accomplished 19,000 steps according to my pedometer, more than each of the prior two days! 

Day One of Five

13 Feb

Facing another long holiday weekend (the last until Easter) we decided to extend it even more and take five days to explore Rome. We have done so much traveling that the list of things to see and do in Rome continues to grow and we don’t have enough daylight hours to be tourists in our own town. So begins what I like to call i cinque giorni del compleanno di Laurel (the five days of Laurel’s birthday).

Iconic EUR "Square Coliseum", unoccupied but rumored to be destined as Fendi headquarters.

Iconic EUR “Square Coliseum”, unoccupied but rumored to be destined as Fendi headquarters.

There are a lot of mega-sites in Rome: the Coliseum, the Roman Forum, Vatican Museums, Borghese Gallery, the Pantheon. The list goes on and on. And there are so many places the average tourist does not see unless she returns to Rome multiple times. We haven’t even managed to get to all of the neighborhoods yet.

The obelisk and colonnades on buildings, along with wide boulevards, reminded me of Washington, D.C.

The obelisk and colonnades on buildings, along with wide boulevards, reminded me of Washington, D.C.

So today we ventured south to the E.U. R., Mussolini’s site for a planned 1942 world’s fair, the Esposizione Universale Roma, which obviously didn’t happen. Today it is described as a residential and business area. We felt like we had left Rome and traveled to another realm.

The architecture is interesting if cold, distant, and rather lacking in charm. The streets are straight, which is unsettling after so long in Rome. If you took in a certain view, it felt in places a little like Washington, D.C., but not nearly as pretty. Washington, D.C., for all its issues, has beauty. Still we were happy to have seen it as the weather was glorious for the first time in weeks.

San Paolo Fuori le Mura (Ric in foreground).

San Paolo Fuori le Mura (Ric in foreground).

After the E.U.R., we stopped by the Basilica Papale di San Paolo Fuori le Mura, or St. Paul’s Outside the Walls. This is the fourth of four papal basilicas for us, and it has taken more than 3 years to get to all of them. Way off the track for most tourists, no exceptional art such as Raphael, Caravaggio, Michelangelo, or Bernini, but with lovely mosaics and peaceful. Of course since my hometown is named for this saint, it seemed fitting to visit.

This uber-serious saint is the namesake of my home town.

This uber-serious saint is the namesake of my home town.

Alter canopy over the tomb of St, Paul.

Alter canopy over the tomb of St, Paul.

Lunch at Eataly, an afternoon on the couch watching a movie, and shortly dinner at my favorite fancy restaurant in Rome, QuarantaQuattro, where I know Sergio will make a fuss.

When I hovered my mouse over this doodle, my name showed up. Strano!

When I hovered my mouse over this doodle, my name showed up. Strano!

On another note, I was shocked to pull up Google this morning and find my birthday was a Google-Doodle. A Big-Brother moment; I assume they pulled the date from Facebook or Google+. Weird. 

Sometimes you just need a car

8 Dec

We sold our cars when we moved to Rome,  and although my bright blue BMW X-3 was the best vehicle

My first Car Share. Ric navigated and pointed out the red lights. I only missed one.

My first Car Share. Ric navigated and pointed out the red lights.

I ever owned, we have not once regretted being car-less.  But sometimes you cannot get where you want to go by public transportation: perhaps a special museum, a lake, or a picturesque small town. Or public transportation takes too long, turning a quick trip to IKEA into a 4 hour marathon. A few times we have rented cars from Hertz for a few days, but we have to pick the car up by Noon on Saturday and cannot return it until 8:30 Monday morning.  So we end up paying for a car for 2+ days, €95-€130 when all we really needed was a car for half-a-day.

Now we have Car Sharing Roma. Like Zip Cars in the U.S., one obtains a membership and pays a small fee per hour and per kilometer to use a communal car.  It took a few weeks, a 12 page contract in Italian, several on-line transactions, and a trip to Poste Italiane, but we were successful. Today we took our maiden voyage and it was smooth sailing. My little Car Sharing card opened the door to the reserved car (only a 10 minute walk from the apartment), and other than being swarmed by motorini drivers at one point on the GRA (Grande Raccordo Anulare), it was smooth sailing. The up front cost is about the same for the first year as two weekend rentals from Hertz, so it’s a no-brainer. Plus you can borrow a car with little or no advance notice, any time of the day or night. Looking forward to more weekend outings in-and-around Rome and Lazio, because sometimes you just need a car.

Our almost-neighborhood Car Sharing point.

Our almost-neighborhood Car Sharing point.