16 September 2024.
Sundays are days for long walks and special lunches, at least while we are traveling. A few years ago, I wrote about a particular favorite, which we have now done three times (See https://girovaga.com/2021/10/03/a-path-to-lunch/) with plans to repeat as often as possible.
Yesterday we discovered another walk that led us to perhaps the finest mountain “hut” around, Rauchhütte on the Alpe di Siusi. I have read various raves about it: “Best hut! You have to go! Nowhere like it!” My cynical self said that all mountain huts are the same atmosphere, beverages, and mountain cuisine, in this case Südtirol specialties, beer, limited wine, grappa, and good coffee. Rauchhütte is un altro mondo: a world apart.
Perhaps I should explain the concept of today’s mountain “huts.” In Italian we call one a rifugio or baita or malga, in German it is hütte. You would probably call one heavenly. We are talking real plates, glassware, and cutlery; Espresso machines and full kitchens; Clean bathrooms. They serve simple mountain food: hearty pastas, local specialities like canederli (a kind of dumpling), cheese and meat platters, polenta, game dishes featuring boar or venison, spareribs, lots of potatoes, beer, limited wines, some hard liquor. Always strudel, homemade cakes, coffee, and so on. Hearty fare. Occasionally a salad slips into the menu.
Approaching the baita Rauchhütte.
Imagine this terrace on a sunny, temperate day!
Rauchhütte defies the traditional baita. It is a gourmet experience, a wine-driven restaurant perched in one of the most beautiful mountain settings you will find. A fabulous deck, a warm and cozy dining room, stellar service, an impressive wine list, and elevated cuisine.
It was almost full when we arrived at noon. We were lucky to get the last unreserved table. Sunday lunch is a big deal and people target Rauchhütte for this special time.
Interior with views to the Sassolungo and Sasspiatto.
You cannot drive to Rauchhütte. You can cycle, hike, walk, or take a bus. We walked an hour to get there from AlpenHotel Panorama as well as an hour after lunch to — get this — ride a chair lift back to our home base! Who needs a bus?
Adding to the pleasure of the day, we are having a wintery September on the Alpe di Siusi. About 6 inches of snow fell Thursday into Friday, and Saturday was cursed with a bitterly cold wind. Sunday, the winds were still, and silence descended as it does with snow on the ground. Even most of the (few) people out were not talking much. Just enjoying the unusual scene. So did we. SIGH.
Lunch was divine. Fine wines by bottle or glass, a limited but excellent menu with many specials for the day featuring seasonal favorites like porcini or deer. Yes, the local specialities were present as well, but in an elevated manner, with the service you would expect in a fine-dining restaurant; except all the patrons were dressed for outdoor sports and had backpacks at their feet.
Ric’s lunch of canederli and goulash.
My choice: Housemade pappardelle with oxtail ragu.
Terrace wall decorated with (empty) wine bottles. They claim to have 300 labels in the wine cellar, mostly local.
A total of five miles and two hours of walking might have put a dent in the house made pappardelle with oxtail rags that I snarfed down. We will be back next year. I might even include one this in the next edition of Walking in Italy’s Val Gardena.
For those who are curious about the route and know the area or are visiting, we walked Trail #6 from Panorama downhill toward Ritsch, turning right on Trail #30 until it joins the main road at the Wiedner Egg bus stop. From there, follow the road to the “hut.” The easy-hiker way back is to walk the road back to the bus stop, then follow Trail #30, the Hans and Paula Steger Trail (also in our book) all the way to Compatsch, returning up to AlpenHotel Panorama via the chairlift.
Or take the bus if you had too much wine. That might happen next year because the wine list is simply awesome.
One of the views on our path to lunch, the magnificent Sassolungo and Sassopiatto.
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Girovaga 
Hi Laurel and Ric, I so love reading about your hiking and treats for your tummies! The photos with this post are absolutely spectacular. Thank you so much for sharing. I can’t remember if I have told you that I have moved. A very happy move. I am now living at The Ackerly at Timberland. The Cedar Mill area of Portland. The area where I lived for 32 years before moving to Holladay Park Plaza. I am hoping that now that I live closer to you, we can make our paths cross for a catch up visit one of these days! Love ya, Carolyn
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We’ll get in touch when we get home, Carolyn!
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Laurel,
What incredibly beautiful locations you always choose, and the hotels and Rifugio look exceptional. I especially enjoyed the photos of the food, and I’ve always wondered why restaurants here can’t produce consistent quality like that.
I visited Alpi di Siusi a few years ago as a day trip from Castelrotto, and your photos brought back some nice memories.
The snow is a bit of an unpleasant surprise but I imagine you packed for that eventuality.
Buon viaggio!
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Yes, luckily we had some good layers, gloves, and warmer jackets. I had to wear the same top and fleece for 3 days, but at least I could change for the fancy half-pension dinners! Now in Lauterbrunnen, with very pleasant days this week!
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Beautiful, but my it looks cold. I used to make ox tail stew for the family when they were young and we had a ranch. Everyone loved it. A few weeks ago I was in the local market and I saw a package of oxtails, about 8 or 10. I picked it up with visions of a lovely stew running through my mind. It cost $24.85 cents. I truly had to look a second time. No ox tails that night. I suggest you enjoy it every day.
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Interesting! My paternal grandmother made oxtail soup and I do think it was rather a budget item back in the 50s and 60s. I haven’t looked for them but that seems steep for a cut that is non-prime!
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You have the BEST adventures when traveling! At first I thought you were in Switzerland but later realized it was the Dolomites. This looks amazing! I’m always inspired by your adventures. Thank you for sharing them.
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Thank you, Lori! It is hard to choose between the Dolomites and Switzerland so we are visiting both. Again. Some might call it a rut, but they are our happy places! Will write soon from Lauterbrunnen!
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I thought it must be cold as seeing how others were dressed at this magnificent hut. Your description makes me want to leave Turkey and travel to you. I think some exercise, good food & wine, plus the atmosphere you suggest sounds so perfect. Keep on sharing.
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Thank you, dear Marcia! Our travels are all about walking and eating…and wine! Just arrived in Lauterbrunnen and I am happy to say it is not cold, but rather seasonally pleasant. Yea!
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The food looks fantastic! As do the views. Wow! Grier
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Thanks! It was good. Cannot eat that way every day but at least we were walking. Cannot wait to have you accompany us!
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Hi Laurel. I’m pretty sure our Rick Steves group stayed here 20 years ago during the month of May, arriving by bus from the valley floor. Several groups of us hiked up the mountain to a small hut/cafe. As we left to continue our hike, it started snowing. We’d not expected snow so weren’t dressed for it. A few of us decided to head back to Rauchhutte, arriving early afternoon just before it really started snowing a lot. The rest of our hikers straggled in over the next hour … one was wearing sandels!
One of my favorite memories from the entire trip was spending the afternoon sitting in the restaurant you show, watching the snow fall, drinking wine and eating snacks. The next day was cold but sunny … the view of the surrounding mountains was amazingly beautiful.
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What a lovely memory! We certainly plan to find ourselves on that terrace with a bottle of wine next year…in the sun!
Sandals in the mountains on a hike? Yikes!
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Ciao! Thanks for the recommendation, will definitely have to hit this huitte next season! Looks fabulous.
While you’re in the area, check out this place as well. We happened to cross it while hiking around the Alpe di Siusi, it’s not so hard to reach but a wonderful respite.
Heualm / Malga del Fieno
https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZoDZTMj7HkP3Fd7w9
Happy hiking!
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Looks great, Michael! We leave in the AM so cannot try it this trip. We have often walked up the Hans and Paula Steger Trail to Malga Laranzer but I do not recall seeing a turnoff to Heualm. You are right: a very easy walk up form the main road. Next year! We are already planning to be here next September. Hoping it doesn’t;t snow early again!
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