13 April 2016. As we looked down on Roma from 450-foot-high Monte Mario, the highest point in town, I contemplated how wonderful it was to be hiking at 10:30 AM on a Tuesday and how lucky we are to be doing so in Roma. Ah, retirement is good!
Thanks to Melissa for this nice picture of Bill, me and Ric at Lo Zodiaco, overlooking Rome from the west.
Today we retraced our route from Thanksgiving 2012, aided once again by the book “Rome the Second Time: 15 Itineraries That Don’t Go to the Colosseum.” We were joined by friends and fellow-embassy retirees, Bill and Melissa, who had not yet made this trek. Very few minutes into the hike one completely forgets one is surrounded by a major city. All you hear is birds singing. Climbing past views of St. Peter’s Basilica and ever higher above the quartiere of Prati, after about 45 minutes one emerges at the Bar/Restaurant Lo Zodiaco, a perfect place for refreshment and contemplating the city at your feet.
The Madonna peaks through the trees as we descend Monte Mario.
The second part of the “hike” becomes urban, with some rather intense traffic, then one enters the woods yet again, enjoying views over the soccer stadium, a shiny Madonna high on the hill, and finally the Foro Italico (formerly Mussolini’s Forum) and the Stadio dei Marmi. It is an area of Roma that most visitors don’t see, but it is a treat to explore these pockets of the city a piede (on foot) and work off post-hike lunch before even eating it.
We ate pizza at a convenient location along the Tevere by the Foro Italico. Our Weekly Pizza would only rate this place at 6-out-of-10 points, but it was convenient and we four enjoyed wrapping up our urban trek with lunch at the very Italian hour of 13:30. Ahhhh, retirement!
Click on any picture below for a better view.
As we wound our way up Monte Mario, this view of St. Peter’s emerged. It is rare to be at a level higher than St. Peter’s. Photo by William Walls.
Hiking down Monte Mario, a short detour leads to views over the spaceship-like soccer stadium.
Statue at the Don Orione complex. The base says “I always bend to the needs of my neighbor.”
The stadium from street level. Note you can see the golden Madonna in the upper right.
Stadio dei Marmi, with giant statues of athletes.
Fascist building in the Foro Italico, once used for the Olympics.
Mussolini’s obelisk at the Foro Italico.
Unexceptional pizza. The bar/ristorante along the Tevere was, however, convenient. Edible, fresh, not wood-fired, a “6” on the Our Weekly Pizza scale.
Girovaga 
A great idea for those wanting to get away from crowds in Rome. It’s also a great place to take a picnic.
John Henderson
Dog-Eared Passport: http://www.johnhendersontravel.com
LikeLike
Yes, it would be a lovely picnic spot, especially that area on the back side overlooking the Vatican.
LikeLike
What a delightful sounding Tuesday! Yes, retirement certainly does have its benefits! I enjoyed all the photos. Thank you.
LikeLike
I love this kind of hiking, too. Lovely country elements right in the city – and views, too. It seems to me that Roma is one of the best walking cities in the world – based on your photos over the years. I hope the Italians know how fortunate they are. I forgot to comment on the last post about the 3rd holiday that you gift your portiere: I forget the name but it is in the middle of august and was started by Caesar Augustus, I think. Ah, to live in a place where they hold on to so many of the small historical ideas – just knowing that it was started by the Caesar that long ago makes it a wonderful holiday.
And I LOVE the idea of having lots of scarves – which I do – but now I will say that it is to prevent the Italian term for cold air on my neck. Thanks for all these glimpses.
LikeLike
Parts of this hike reminded me of Forest Park: so near to the city and yet so far! Yes, Ferragosto, the mid-August holiday. If you get a chance, try to rent “Mid-August Lunch.” It is an Italian comedy set on Ferragosto. It’s a big family day holiday here, adn one of very few non-religious holidays.
A neighborhood portiere….like a concierge. I like it!
LikeLike
That Madonna is spectacular!
LikeLike
Indeed! You can see her from quite far away, once you know what you are looking for!
LikeLike