28 September 2024.
On the streets of every village are traces of the alpabzüg, the annual descent of the cows from mountain grazing pastures (alps) to the valley villages and towns. The cows and their people take the same routes every year, some of which are the very paths hikers use. It is a big deal and a steady rain after is welcome, at least by me, to remove those telltale streaks. A cow must do what a cow must do, and hundreds have made the descent in the past few days.
We have seen many “cow parades” over the 10 years we have been coming to the Jungfrau Region as well as some in other parts of the country. Sometimes there are formal festivals with costumes for both cows and humans. Sometimes it is a farmer simply walking down the street with his 5 or 6 cows when he has the notion to descend. When we hear the giant bells clanging, we run to the street or window (along with many others) to watch the ancient tradition.
After the descent, the villages celebrate with the chästeilet, or cheese festival, a gathering for music, food, dancing and, of course, the selling of the alpkäse, or cheese made while the cows are feeding on lush mountain grass. Each farmer marks their cheese with their farm name. When we go to the local grocery stores, we can see the products of the various farms displayed. Occasionally we see entrepreneurial farmers selling their cheeses in vending machines along the road along with beverages, dried apple slices, and other snacks.
Two cheeses labeled in the grocery store case, one from Stechelberg and another form Wengernalp. The third entry is in a vending machine outside the farm along a road many walk through the valley.
Festivals can be tiny or grand in scale. At little Winteregg, which is where the little cliff top train from Grütschalp to Mürren crosses paths with hiking and cycling trails, we found a small gathering of farm folk with cakes and drinks (beer, schnapps, coffee) available. No entertainment. Just the cheesemakers whose hut is nearby and the farmers who supply the milk.
Winteregg’s 2023 festival, a community gathering right next to the hut where the cheese is made.
Three and a half kilometers away, as the crow flies (12 km by car, but you cannot drive there) is Wengen, which put on a grand chästeilet Saturday and Sunday a week ago. An evening and a day of celebration with music and massive quantities of food, table space for hundreds of people, gigantic cheeses, and handmade goods for sale. You could arrange to purchase a cow share. (Not sure if that means alive or butchered.) For a community of 1,300 permanent residents, it was an amazing event.
Wengen’s chästeilet is a huge affair for the surrounding farms, locals, and tourists. Massive wheels of cheese, samples, crafts for sale, and a community feed with vats of rösti and other local fare. Of course there was beer, homemade cakes, and coffee.
Last year someone tried to drive to Wengen. We know the path: it leads up from Lauterbrunnen and is clearly marked not for driving. Cringe-worthy video here.
Today we attended the cheese festival in Thun (pronounced ‘tune,’) 42 km away on the shores of Lake Thun. Thun is much larger at 42,000+ people, and draws farmers’ production from all over the Canton of Bern, so the festival is huge. Here they call it käsefest. There must have been 40 vendors as the Thun festival is all about sampling and selling. Cows milk cheese, goats milk cheese (it’s not all feta or chèvre), sheeps milk cheese, organic or not, they had it. Need your fondue or raclette cheese stash fortified for the coming cold months? Buy direct from the farmer at the Thun käsefest. Perhaps chilli pepper laced alp cheese or an herb-flecked mild cheese is more to your liking.
The French may have over 400 types of cheese, but the farmers of the Canton must have at least that many varieties of alp cheese.
The cheese festival was conducted next to the farmers market in charming Thun on the Aare River and included not only sampling, but cheese made on site. Each farm had its own kiosk. Click on any photo for a better view.
Frankly, we are a bit cheesed-out at this point, so we bought some great dark chocolate. Swiss, of course.
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Laurel,
Seeing a photo of the “cow parade” made me smile and brought back some nice memories. I was fortunate to be in Lauterbrunnen one year (also in late September) and was able to enjoy the spectacle. The farmers certainly go to great lengths to “dress” the cows!
Hopefully you’re also enjoying some fine Italian meals, as that’s a nice break from the Rösti and other local fare.
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Beautiful! Love those cows and their ringing bells! Reading and viewing those pics made us feel homesick; it’s hard to believe that one year ago we were watching those cows and walking the streets with you! Wonderful memories! Enjoy! Love to you both.
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I knew you would relate this this post, Janet! Great memories of having you as our next-door neighbors!
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I have no idea what that name is next to my comment.
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I’ve seen this several times in Austria, but there was no festival after, that I saw. One time, one of the herders insisted that my husband share some of his schnapps. Must be a guy thing, because he certainly didn’t offer any to me. Your photos are wonderful. Thank you for sharing your trips with us.
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Hi Chloe. At our very first cow parade, which ran next to the Hotel Silberhorn here, a server came out with tiny cups of wine for us to toast the occasion. It was so festive! No idea about your naming. It’s always com through as Chloe before!
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WOW, how marvelous. Love the pictures. It makes me think I should put this on my travel bucket list.
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I cannot believe you haven’t been here after all these years! There is great hiking, easy like we do and more challenging as you may like. We should talk!
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When you get home we should definitely talk. 🙂
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so glad you are having a nice time. Love following all your adventures.
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It is indeed our happy place, Kim! Thank you!
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Cheese, cheese, and more cheese! What a treat to see the festival and the cow parade. Your photos are terrific! Grier
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This country runs on cheese, potatoes, and sausage, mostly pork. We are off to eat Italian for lunch today. Hopefully some salmon!
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I am in awe of these festivals; how colorful they are and all of the local products. It looks so quaint (the small ones) and so fun with even the big ones. The cows and their decorations make me smile. Cheese in a vending machine? Who knew! Better for you that potato chips.
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Marcia, The road side cheese sales used to be truly “honor system” when we first came here ten years ago. I suspect theft became routine so now at least this one farmer has a more reliable model. Why not?
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I’ll have to read this post a second time after I’m not so hungry … your pictures make it hard for me to concentrate on the words! 🙂
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Perhaps I should issue “Eat before reading” warnings!
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