On the road again

1 Sep

1 September 2023.

Sorry I haven’t written. We’ve been very busy since arriving in Switzerland on August 23!

On every trip we seem to find ourselves on a hike we would not have taken had we known what was ahead. In 2021, we climbed a mountain. In 2022, we took a route in the Alpe di Siusi that was short enough, not too much elevation change, but included a steep, downhill, dolomite-strewn trail suitable for mountain goats, not necessarily septuagenarians.

This year’s happy error was the panoramic trail from Muottas Muragl to Alp Languard in Switzerland’s Engadine. This route featured in nearly every hiking source I could consult. Some called it “easy” or “moderately strenuous.” We’d call it, at the very least, challenging. The expected 2 hours became 3-and-a-quarter. It was only 4.25 miles long so our pace was slow. That should tell you something about the trail. Incredible vistas, gorgeous weather (sun and high-50s, Fahrenheit), rocky downhills, steep climbs, some narrow paths with frightening drop-offs, streams to cross (waterproof hiking boots held up nicely), and best of all, tilting flagstones over a scree field. 

My sister-in-law would have hated it!

The trail maintenance effort to create this flagstone path across the scree field is laudable. Still, a bit unnerving to cross as the stones canted much more than you can see, first one way, then another, and a few of them rocked in place when weight was placed on them.

Thank goodness we had our trekking sticks and terrific boots! 

Many many young people, as well as those in our age bracket, strode confidently along the trail. Others pussyfooted like us. I did have to stop feeling sorry for myself when we saw a woman older than us (!!) slowly and determinedly making her way. Luckily she had a minder with her. If it took us over 3 hours her pace would have been at least 4 hours. 

This may be the most crowded trail we have taken in all our years of hiking in Switzerland and Italy. Luckily groups arrived in time with a funicular and quickly dispersed. Occasionally we had to stand aside for a couple dozen students to trek past us, all very polite with a pleasant “Greützi!” Here a group lunches with a view of St. Moritz.

But it was beautiful! We are terribly proud of having done it. This route was on our list for 2018, the last time we were in Pontresina. At that time, the weather and trail conditions prohibited the trek. So, done and dusted: we did it. Non mai di piú!

From the trail, incredible view of Piz Bernina, the highest peak in the area, 14,283 feet above sea level.

Pontresina is one of the Italian-speaking valleys in this region, the Engadine, so it has been fun to exercise those Italian linguistic muscles. I have been studying German this summer, though, and I find a mixture spews out from time-to-time. German articles (der, die, das) with Italian nouns, for example. Das burro, anyone?

We also hiked to the Morteratsch Glacier below Piz Bernina the other day. Fresh snow the night before made for a stunning scene. This is a lovely 4.5 mile out and back. The trailhead is reached by a little mountain train of the Rhaetianbahn.

Surprisingly, in Appenzell, our stop prior to Pontresina, we encountered some Swiss who did not speak English and I managed in German. I was pretty happy since my academic efforts in the language ended in 1972. Duolingo has helped me refresh. 

We’ve had weather from 93F/34C to 37F/3C. Pack for that! (Actually, we did!) We only got drenched once, so far, in the last 20 minutes of a lovely hike in Appenzell. Rivers have raged and retreated, snow has fallen at higher elevations. No doubt the weather gods will throw more curves in the coming weeks, but we are prepared with layers of all types, Gortex, and great shoes.

Herewith, a few shots from our days in Zurich and Appenzell.

From the upper left: Morning in Zurich, Already 70 degrees; Cow parade in Appenzell, viewed from our room; The BarFussWeg or Barefoot Way. We did not do it barefooted. Some did. Yuck. It is tick season!

From the lower left: Along the Barefoot Way, many surfaces, some not friendly to bare feet; Cows always enhance the experience; Final picture a cloudy day for the Appenzeller Loop, a lovely walk through the landscape.

As they say in Deutsch, Bis bald! (See you soon!)

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Switzerland in the Spring

3 Jun

3 June 2023.

Our 11 nights in the Jungfrau Region were delightful. This was most definitely the right course correction after we had to abandon Ireland. We had the benefit of familiarity but, as always, we found new corners to explore.

Most of our trips have been in September/October plus a post-New Year’s-weekend in 2014. This time we experienced the lushness and variety of Switzerland in the spring. There are marked differences not only in the landscape but in services and activities.

There was still snow on the ground keeping trails impassable or at best unsafe. Some lifts do not run until the very end of May or into early June, which limited our access to the higher places.

Construction and maintenance season comes between the skiing and hiking seasons in springtime as well as between the hiking and skiing in the fall. The little mountain train between Grütschalp and Mürren was down for a month, reopening June 2, after we departed. We think (hope?) it will be with the new trains, which we have been looking forward to. The gondola to one of our favorite locations, Maennlichen, only opened on our final day after a between-seasons closure. Many hotels were still shuttered with signs indicating they’d be reopening in early June. Some of these will be closed again by early September.

Tulips were at peak bloom when we arrived mid-month, thanks to the elevation in Wengen, long past the bloom date in Oregon. Bleeding hearts still dripped with their distinctive flowers as well, and the deciduous trees at elevation were just starting to leaf out. By the end of the month, our initially mountain-view apartment had a leafy-view.

What else is different about Switzerland in the spring? WATER! Water gushes in the streams becoming a rushing flow in the rivers. Previously invisible waterfalls spring from cliffs and crevices. Each bend in the track of our little mountain train from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen was a treat with white, frothy waterfalls cascading close by.

There are four waterfalls easily visible in this photo but in autumn we rarely see any in this same location.

The river is running about twice as fast as later in the season. The sound carries throughout the valley.

Swiss gardens, which we see on the post-harvest end of the season each year, were neat little patches with hopeful plant starts. Nurseries popped up in the villages and the COOP had a supply of bagged dirt and geraniums out front with promising packets of seeds. The vegetable gardens are always immaculate,  no matter the season, and worthy of being in the front of the houses, unlike our tendency to hide them out back in the US. Gardens are highlighted by whimsy and there is always room for flowers as well as edibles.

Neat rows of hopeful plants
Same garden, wider view, with ornamentals
Another neatly organized easy-to-work-in garden.
Green cones protect delicate leafy greens from nights that ae stil cold.

Tourism is back in a big way. Now that Asia is wide open post-pandemic, the Chinese tour groups and Japanese honeymoon couples joined Middle Eastern and South Asian families experiencing snow with glee. Many Swiss were traveling in their own country as there were two holiday weekends during our stay. As usual, we found that once we were away from the train stations and easier-to-access viewpoints and sights, we were mostly alone on the trails. That rarely changes whether spring or autumn.

We are home and mostly recovered from travel, caught up on laundry, and looking forward to 2 ½ months of summer. August 22 we will welcome our fabulous house sitter for a repeat engagement and return to lovely Switzerland as has been planned for many months. If there are changes, we’ll let you know!

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Walking Wengen: Easy Hikes with Fabulous Views

26 May

27 May 2023.

It was with some reluctance that we stayed in Wengen this trip. As our plans were made only a few days in advance, finding a suitable apartment in one of the three villages boiled down to only a few choices that we could gulp and swallow the price on. 

Wengen’s Main Street: a few shops and restaurants along with several hotels, nestled beneath the Jungfrau.

Luckily, the apartment is comfortable and has all we need: dishwasher, washing machine, clothes dryer, and, most importantly, a Nespresso machine. It is also quiet since the village is car-free and each morning we wake to birdsong. We are immune to the hourly tolling of the church bells nearby as we fall into bed very tired from the day’s activities. 

Our reluctance to stay in Wengen stemmed from the need to ride the train down and up from the Lauterbrunnen station every day. While it is less than 20 minutes each way, it does add to travel times when going to Interlaken, Grindelwald, Mürren and beyond. It is, however, a stunningly beautiful ride and, after all, what else do we have to do? 

I took this photo of Lauterbrunnen from the train on our way back to Wengen yesterday.

On the plus side, we have gotten to know Wengen just a bit better. Prior trips had us passing through on the way to-or-from the Männlichen cable car. We had eaten a couple of meals here and years ago Ric once bought a wool hiking hat that still makes every trip. In the past we’ve taken in the view from the church and enjoyed two walks — Mönchblick and Staubbachbänkli — that we wrote about in our book Walking in Switzerland’s Berner Oberland. Our temporary residency has led us to “discover” two more lovely walks as well as the fabulous Restaurant Maya Caprice and we have come to appreciate the silence of this car-free zone. 

Same waterfall, viewed from Hunneflue, above Wengen after a 25 minute walk.

We still love Lauterbrunnen and our happy home at James’ and Michele’s apartment, where we will pass a month again this fall. Wengen will also be on our list for a few outings in the fall.

For those visiting the area, be certain to stop at the Wengen Tourism Office next to the cable car station and pick up the Dorfplan, which is a little map of the village showing several very easy to moderate walks to viewpoints. These require no transportation and are lovely at any time of day with ever-changing lighting on the magnificent views. They will take you to corners of Wengen the casual visitor misses entirely as the majority are focused on the village center and getting up the mountains by train or cable car. Most of the paths are paved and many have lighting so that evening walks are feasible. 

No wonder we come back so often. There is always something new for the easy-hiker to discover.

Along the trail, a little bear cub carved into a tree stump.
One of three carved tree stumps that delighted us on our walk.
A playful project in a mossy area, a hidden treasure when you leave the Main Street.
Another part of the fanciful garden.
Ric is ready to dig in! An Italian pizzaiolo makes authentic Neopolitan pies at Maya Caprice in Wengen.

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Detour, or why we are in Switzerland and not Ireland

20 May

20 May 2023.

Ireland was the plan: Switzerland is the reality. But first, Wales!

When last I wrote (see Styles of Stiles) we had just arrived in Wales in the charming town of Conwy. Northern Wales is lush and green, much like Western Oregon and Washington, with similar trees, shrubs, flowers, and even waterfowl. The weather was fine and there were neither mud nor cow dung underfoot. But then we were not walking in pastures. 

Where the Pacific Northwest has soaring mountains, Wales has castles. Lots of castles. Storming Conwy Castle, climbing the town walls, a day trip and walk in Betws-y-Coed (which I can now pronounce correctly), and strolling through Bodnant Gardens filled our three days. No rain hats required. 

Bodnant Garden is an exceptional place. Acres and acres of manicured gardens, lush forest, winding paths, a folly here-and-there. Once a private estate, it was handed over to The National Trust in 1949. The house is still occupied by Lord Aberconwy. You can point a camera in any direction and get a beautiful shot. Click on any photo for an enlargement.

Formidable Conwy Castle
Built in 1283-1287
Ric models the smallest house in Wales, 6’ wide x 10’ high.
Cute little Betws-y-Coed
Bodnant Garden: Looking down at the Mill
Bodnant Garden
Manor house at Bodnant, still occupied by the Lord
Bodnant Garden, beauty at every turn
A stream through Bodnant
While peak spring flowering had passed and summer blooms just on the way, it was still lush and lovely.
A hidden pond, Bodnant Garden

Our traveling companions including the experienced left-hand-side-of-the-road driver had to cancel their trip to Ireland due to family circumstances. Where we were going in Ireland was quite rural and was not going to be easy to do by train and bus. Ric and I are not left-hand drivers and not about to start. After a quick assessment of how we might best spend the next two weeks, we made an about face from Conwy and headed to the continent and our favorite refuge, The Lauterbrunnen Valley.

I briefly assessed changing our tickets to fly home sooner. Not only was it depressing to think of calling the trip to a halt, the cost to change was astronomical as airfares have escalated so dramatically since we bought our tickets in September. 

Getting here was a two-day journey. We avoid flying when we can and so we did. Tuesday we rode on two British trains to London, then the EuroStar to Paris, where we spent one night. The next day, a French TGV Lyria took us to Basel and was followed by a series of three Swiss trains to get us to our tiny mountain village. I know some would find this nightmarish (my brother’s idea of Hell, I think) but we travel light and find it far less stressful than flying. Plus a night and a morning in Paris = a fine meal and a lovely morning walk in an elevated garden, La Coulée Verte René-Dumont, which I wrote about four years ago in this Postcard from Paris.

Coulée Verte René-Dumont, aka Promenade Plantée
Hard to believe Paris rush hour is close by it is so serene in the elevated setting.
Sardinian dinner, Paris @ Sardegna a Tavola

The weather forecast for the Lauterbrunnen area was daunting. Weather.com showed rain for the foreseeable future when we checked it before leaving Wales. But the reality is far better and the weather app MeteoSwiss has been our friend. I have not had to wear a rain hat yet and we even saw peeks of sunlight the past few days with continuing improvement ahead.

No book research, no major plans. Just enjoying seeing one of our favorite places in a different season; we have only visited in the fall and once, briefly, in the winter. It is a totally different experience in the spring: fewer tourists, although the transportation can be crowded, and many places are still closed for rest and renovations between ski season and hiking season. Tulips are still blooming and the deciduous trees just leafing out are a stunning contrast to the deep green conifers.

For those of you who know the area, the little cliff side train from Grütschalp to Mürren is out of service as they will bring the new equipment on-line in June. From what we could see, track-work must be just about complete. The corresponding gondola is also out of service until the middle of June although the path between Grütschalp and Mürren is open if you want to walk roundtrip, I guess. (We did not.)

We are riding trains and gondolas, taking easy hikes, and discovering new corners of this marvelous region. Might have to eat some rösti, too.

The Niesen Peak seems to float above a blooming field.
Nature Reserve Weissenau along Lake Thun
Otherworldly view above Mürren
View from the Stechelberg gondola. This springtime view so different from our autumn experience of rusts and golds.

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Styles of stiles and trip miscellany

13 May

13 May 2023.

England delivered exactly what we expected: occasional sun and plenty of damp, but high spirits surrounding the spectacle of King Charles III’s coronation.

What a privilege it was to be in-country for the event! When we booked our trip, Queen Elizabeth was still very much alive so being there — although not in London, thank the gods — was strictly coincidental.

In Lower Slaughter on the Sunday after the Coronation, the village prepares for The Big Lunch, a community celebration. These parties took place all over the U.K.

First stop was Oxford, convenient on our path to The Cotswolds for some country walking. Oxford was decked out for the upcoming pageant and did not disappoint. We toured parts of Oxford University with a doctoral candidate and enjoyed his inside-take on how the place functions and inevitable comparisons to the U.S. university experience.

Blenheim Palace was a glimpse into the aristocratic lifestyle as the family still resides there. Goslings and ducklings peppered the estate grounds and the gardens were in fine form. I can only imagine how gorgeous the roses must be in season. Our final Oxford tour was of the Bodleian Libraries, dating to the 15th century when 281 manuscripts were donated, the libraries now house over 13 million printed items.

The oldest part of the Bodleian, Duke Humphrey’s’ Library. Volumes cannot be “checked out” but must be read on-site with a chaperone librarian.

Almost over jet lag, we headed to Bourton-on-the-Water, our home for a week. We chose a self-guided center-based itinerary with HF Holidays staying in a hotel that was previously a private residence built in 1662.

This is the view of the grand staircase that greeted us outside our our room.

No matter how often we tour in the UK or the rest of Europe I am constantly dumbfounded by the history and the preservation and adaptation of old buildings. HF Holidays provided a lovely room, cooked breakfast and dinner with a packed lunch daily, and dozens of walking itineraries to choose from. We could select from clear instructions encased in waterproof laminating to guide us. All we had to do was don our gear and head out each day.

Those waterproof instructions were necessary. Our walk conditions have ranged from misty to sun-dappled to downright soggy. It reminded us of Oregon although in Oregon we have never hiked with sheep nor though mud as sticky and pervasive as we have done here.

And there are stiles of many styles. Frankly, I prefer a good gate, but the stiles were definitely a sensible solution to allowing walkers to walk unhindered yet keep sheep and cows in their fields. They are being replaced in many areas to allow barrier-free access to public footpaths.

Squeeze-style stile
Step- style stile
Ric demonstrates
V-shape just accommodates a leg
Step-style with a log base in the mud.
Muddy gate and high style poncho
Ducks and sheep in the meadow
Old flour mill in Lower Slaughter
Bunting in Bourton-on-the-Water
Hanging out in Lower Slaughter

Our final day in Bourton-on-the-Water was weather perfection, a sunny day capped by a thunderstorm at 17:00 when we were safely “home.”

Evening light on the river in Bourton.
We walked through this estate.
Cotswolds view.
Trees not yet in full leaf.
Mill pond.
Lambing season!

We set off for Wales yesterday (Friday). Almost two hours by private transport thanks to a rail strike in England, then a 3 hour train ride. Conwy, the town we are staying in, is charming and today’s weather exactly what you’d hope for on a spring day!

Will write more from Ireland later in the trip!

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